The treasure islands where tortoises have right of way – The Telegraph

On several nights, Pegasus anchored at sea, and excursions involved getting on the ships Zodiac to be whizzed ashore, or as close as the sturdy rubber boat could get. Wet landings added to the sense of adventure as we clutched our shoes and belongings and waded onto dry land through the warm shallows.

But more exciting still was our arrival at Cousin, another unpopulated island and important bird sanctuary, which has been at the forefront of conserving the once critically endangered Seychelles warbler. In fairness, Roddy had tried to warn us laughing a cheery Its going to be like a James Bond movie! during his pre-dinner daily briefing the night before but even so, it was a trial not to flinch when our craft, skippered by one of Cousins wardens, approached the beach and, instead of slowing down, accelerated right up onto the sand.

After each day of exciting excursions, wed return to Pegasus and bask in her homely warmth and comfort, greeted by pulsing music on the marine platform while cold beers and drinks were passed around by the ever-smiling crew.

On our first night, Kostas, the hotel manager, told us Variety Cruises didnt have passengers or clients, but family. It was true. Officers and crew mingled with their newfound relations throughout, and joined in enthusiastically when local entertainers came aboard and invited us to have a go at the traditional dance from La Digue, madilo. Similar to rubbing your head and patting your stomach, this involves facing your partner and swapping hands to hold a stick, and lifting alternate legs over it as it increases in height. Tricky, and more so after a tipple, but endlessly entertaining.

It was on our final morning that we visited Moyenne to make way for tortoises and hear the tale of the extraordinary Englishman who bought a tropical island on an altruistic whim. Over the years, he was offered millions of dollars for the isle, but turned them all down. He died in 2012 and is buried alongside his father, next to a pair of centuries-old stone graves he uncovered when clearing the island. Bearing the inscriptions Unhappily Unknown they are believed to be the resting place of two pirates who reputedly also buried treasure nearby, which Grimshaw tried and failed to find.

Hidden cache or not, the visit to an island where tortoises are king was certainly an enriching experience. Keep your beaches and resorts Ive seen the Seychelles anew.

How to do it: Variety Cruises (varietycruises.co.uk) offers a year-round seven-night Garden of Eden round trip cruise on Pegasus plus three night B&B post-cruise stay at the Savoy Resort on Mahe Island from 3,545pp, including flights and transfers, or seven nights cruise only from 2,300 in 2023.

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The treasure islands where tortoises have right of way - The Telegraph