Yes, it's cheesy and full of tourists. But taken on its own terms, National Harbor works surprisingly well.
Darrow Montgomery
Walking back down the pier at National Harbor after a ride on the Ferris wheel, something caught my eye: a lighthouse. More accurately, it was a miniature replica of a lighthouse set incongruously on top of a building whose brushed-chrome panels and greenish glass seemed to whisper luxury condos. And next to the little lighthouse, amazingly, there stood a woman gazing out toward Virginia, her skirt and scarf billowing in the breeze. It was a lovely day and the view up there must be great, but even so: What the hell was she doing?
I drew closeralmost in the shadow of the buildingbefore I realized. The woman was a mannequin, a store-window prop draped in flowing garments. Welcome to National Harbor, where relentless fakery has somehow, in a few short years, birthed a real place.
When people in D.C. and its innermost suburbs talk about National Harbor, its often with a sense of confused annoyance. What is it, where is it, and why would anyone go there? I first visited back in 2008, when only a lonely row of buildings along the water and the Gaylord National Resort and Convention Center, the largest hotel on the East Coast, occupied the space.
I returned last week to find a downtown jammed with people. Yes, National Harbor is cheesy and full of tourists. But its also home to a few thousand permanent residents. And taken on its own terms as a city-fragment devoted to fun, it works surprisingly well.
Located in southern Prince Georges County, in a crook of Potomac River shoreline just south of I-495 and the Woodrow Wilson Bridge, National Harbor is the do-over of a redevelopment plan called Port America that died on the vine in the 1980s. The ultimate project is a 350-acre resort destination, according to its website, that combines an approachable, resort-like personality with a singular, dynamic experience for local residents and visitors alike.
As such breathless real estate speak suggests, National Harbor is not a downtown in the usual sense, but the fiefdom of a private developer, the Peterson Companies. That accounts for the comfort-food vibe of the place, how it offers up the flavors of a city in a way that your palate immediately recognizes, with nothing bitter or spicy to spoil your digestion.
The chefs know what theyre doing. Peterson led the redevelopment of downtown Silver Spring in the 1990s, turning a shopping district that had seen better days into the nerve center of eastern Montgomery County. There are commonalities between Silver Springs Peterson precinct and National Harbor: the mall-like branding, the rent-a-cops, and even a square of AstroTurf like the one that Silver Spring loved and lost (Silver Springs was eventually replaced by a landscaped plaza, over protests).
But the developers have upped their game at National Harbor, recognizing the need to keep antsy conventioneers from hailing a cab to Alexandria or D.C. All manner of entertainment beckons: the Ferris wheel, a carousel, pedal boats, a mock pirate ship, outdoor movies, and dozens of restaurants. The mothership, of course, is the new MGM Casino up the road, which opened late last year.
Darrow Montgomery
National Harbor proper is the work of several architecture and planning firms, helmed by Development Design Group (architecture) and Sasaki & Associates (landscape architecture and environmental graphics). The buildings have a Control-C, Control-V look to them: red brick, yellow brick, balconies with scrolled railings, decorative cornices and crowns like cake toppers. Theyre not unattractive, and theyre very good at concealing parking garages behind false fronts.
The spaces between and around the buildings are thoughtfully laid out. On Mariner Passage, I spotted a narrow pathway threading between two buildings and underneath a third through a low archway. Intrigued, I let the path pull me along until I emerged onto the two-block-long Main Street of National Harbor, American Way.
Barcelona its not, but I couldnt help thinking of that city and its boulevards, with medians generous enough to support social life. The broad median of American Way is outfitted with benches and cafe tables and chairs. That afternoon, every last one was taken. Kids ran around a small playground. Teenagers posed for selfies with statues. Across from them, grown-ups sipped wine on a restaurant patio. The developers couldnt have hoped for a better promo shot.
This Is How You Harbor, ads proclaim on the street corners, and apparently how you harbor is with a boatload of kitsch. Theres a garish painted statue of Rosie the Riveter, a giant inflated chick outside the Peeps store, and of course, the dwarf lighthouse with its eerie plastic inhabitant. Thats before you set foot inside the Gaylord, where faux colonial buildings are arranged like dollhouses under a vast glass roof.
The rise of privately-owned public space in American cities is a problematic trend, and very much at play herepersonally, Id prefer my Sunday stroll without a pitch for a timeshare. But just as teenagers used to hang out at Orange Julius in the Eighties and old folks still gather at McDonalds to nurse coffees, highly commercialized environments can foster real social connection.
Urbanists ding National Harbor for its woeful lack of connectivity to the rest of P.G. County and D.C., and the criticism is deserved. The nearest Metro station is Huntington, four miles away and across the river in Virginia. The MGM casino is a mile away, but only someone with a death wish would try to walk or bike there along National Harbor Boulevard and the Beltway feeder road. National Harbors downtown, the casino, and the Tanger Outlets are islands. The developers have created an archipelago of destinations rather than a necklace.
Two Metrobus lines do service National Harbor, making it possible for some of the several thousand people who work there to commute without cars. Visitors complain about the high cost of parking ($3 an hour, going up to $18 for the day and $12 for the evening). Peterson should keep parking pricey, but make National Harbors circulator bus free and increase the frequency of the Metrobuses on the companys dime. (The company already pays part of the cost of running the buses.)
On the crest of the hill behind the Gaylord, a metal fence cuts off a subdivision of new brownstones from an older suburban neighborhood. The roads of Oxon Hill dont connect to National Harbortheres only one way in or out. This was a concession to locals concerned about traffic, but Balkanizing the area was a bad move, sheltering P.G. homeowners from inconvenience in the short term while cutting them off from waterfront access and real-estate gains in the long term.
After my outing (pro tip: skip the Ferris wheel and ride the Gaylord elevators for free to the 19th floor for the same view), the contrast I kept coming back to was with CityCenter DC. With its designer boutiques and minimalist architecture, CityCenter is tasteful where National Harbor is vulgar. Yet CityCenter feels like a ghost town and National Harbor is hopping.
The more exclusive D.C. becomes, I suspect, the more of a market there will be in its ever-growing suburbs for destinations where you can entertain a family without spending a fortune. P.G. County in particular has lacked these kind of destinations, causing its economic development to drag. National Harbor helps fill the gap, with better than average urban design internally, even if its connections to the world outside are lacking. Now, if only it would lay off the kitsch.
More:
- About Buying Islands - Private Islands Online [Last Updated On: June 10th, 2016] [Originally Added On: June 10th, 2016]
- 100 Best Private Island Resorts | Islands [Last Updated On: June 12th, 2016] [Originally Added On: June 12th, 2016]
- PRIVATE ISLAND NEWS - Private islands for sale and for ... [Last Updated On: September 29th, 2016] [Originally Added On: September 29th, 2016]
- Pumpkin Island - Private Islands Online [Last Updated On: October 17th, 2016] [Originally Added On: October 17th, 2016]
- Private Ocean Islands [Last Updated On: October 17th, 2016] [Originally Added On: October 17th, 2016]
- Petra Island - New York, United States - Private Islands ... [Last Updated On: October 17th, 2016] [Originally Added On: October 17th, 2016]
- Buck Island - BVI, Caribbean - Private Islands for Sale [Last Updated On: November 21st, 2016] [Originally Added On: November 21st, 2016]
- Canary Islands - Wikipedia [Last Updated On: December 7th, 2016] [Originally Added On: December 7th, 2016]
- Farallon Islands - Wikipedia [Last Updated On: December 7th, 2016] [Originally Added On: December 7th, 2016]
- Tahiti Tourisme - Official Web Site [Last Updated On: December 7th, 2016] [Originally Added On: December 7th, 2016]
- Private Islands - Official Site [Last Updated On: December 12th, 2016] [Originally Added On: December 12th, 2016]
- Grasshopper Island - Ontario, Canada - Private Islands for ... [Last Updated On: January 4th, 2017] [Originally Added On: January 4th, 2017]
- Turks and Caicos Islands - Wikipedia [Last Updated On: January 6th, 2017] [Originally Added On: January 6th, 2017]
- Best Private Islands: Belize's Cayo Espanto [Last Updated On: February 2nd, 2017] [Originally Added On: February 2nd, 2017]
- Obama now holidaying on Richard Branson's private island - SBS [Last Updated On: February 6th, 2017] [Originally Added On: February 6th, 2017]
- President Obama Is Posted Up with His Hat Backwards on Richard Branson's Private Island - Esquire.com [Last Updated On: February 6th, 2017] [Originally Added On: February 6th, 2017]
- The Best Private Islands for Romance - TravelPulse [Last Updated On: February 10th, 2017] [Originally Added On: February 10th, 2017]
- Frommer: Dumbing down the cruise experience - News Chief [Last Updated On: February 11th, 2017] [Originally Added On: February 11th, 2017]
- The world's sexiest islands are in the middle of nowhere - New York Post [Last Updated On: February 14th, 2017] [Originally Added On: February 14th, 2017]
- How 30000 pieces of bamboo came together to create the private island of Cempedak - Web In Travel [Last Updated On: February 14th, 2017] [Originally Added On: February 14th, 2017]
- Tavanipupu Private Island Resort, Solomon Islands: The South Pacific's best kept secret - Blue Mountains Gazette [Last Updated On: February 17th, 2017] [Originally Added On: February 17th, 2017]
- 5 Reasons the Cruise Lines' Private Islands Are Travelers' Favorite ... - Travel Agent [Last Updated On: February 18th, 2017] [Originally Added On: February 18th, 2017]
- A Private Island in the Bahamas for $8.9 Million - Caribbean Journal [Last Updated On: February 19th, 2017] [Originally Added On: February 19th, 2017]
- Vomo Island Fiji Luxury beach resort and spa [Last Updated On: February 22nd, 2017] [Originally Added On: February 22nd, 2017]
- 8 Best Caribbean Cruise Line Private Destinations - Cruise Fever [Last Updated On: February 23rd, 2017] [Originally Added On: February 23rd, 2017]
- 5 gorgeous private islands you can visit by cruise ship - USA TODAY [Last Updated On: February 23rd, 2017] [Originally Added On: February 23rd, 2017]
- Song Saa, Cambodia: Private island comfort at a new level - Ballarat Courier [Last Updated On: February 24th, 2017] [Originally Added On: February 24th, 2017]
- Six beautiful Maine private islands that can be yours in time for summer - Bangor Daily News [Last Updated On: February 24th, 2017] [Originally Added On: February 24th, 2017]
- Seven island houses where you can shut out the world - AOL Money UK [Last Updated On: February 25th, 2017] [Originally Added On: February 25th, 2017]
- Adidas promises to give island to NFL draft prospect who breaks 40-yard dash record - For The Win [Last Updated On: February 28th, 2017] [Originally Added On: February 28th, 2017]
- Your own private island for 7000: Seven of the most luxurious new ... - The Independent [Last Updated On: February 28th, 2017] [Originally Added On: February 28th, 2017]
- Your own private island for 7000: Seven of the most luxurious new private island resorts across the world - The Independent [Last Updated On: February 28th, 2017] [Originally Added On: February 28th, 2017]
- Turneffe Island Resort Private Diving & Fishing Resort ... [Last Updated On: March 2nd, 2017] [Originally Added On: March 2nd, 2017]
- Nobody at the NFL Combine is winning the island for their 40 time, sorry - SB Nation [Last Updated On: March 4th, 2017] [Originally Added On: March 4th, 2017]
- You can now buy THREE private islands with sandy beaches for less than the price of a house in Britain - The Sun [Last Updated On: March 4th, 2017] [Originally Added On: March 4th, 2017]
- Honeymoon ideas: try the British Virgin Islands if you like cocktails, pristine Caribbean beaches and private islands - The Independent [Last Updated On: March 6th, 2017] [Originally Added On: March 6th, 2017]
- The Best of Cruise Lines' Idyllic Private Islands - Forbes [Last Updated On: March 6th, 2017] [Originally Added On: March 6th, 2017]
- Royal Caribbean Signs Investment Agreement With Bahamas, Plans to Enhance Private Island CocoCay - Cruise Critic [Last Updated On: March 8th, 2017] [Originally Added On: March 8th, 2017]
- A Cruise Line Commits To Developing Private Island in The Bahamas - Caribbean360.com (subscription) [Last Updated On: March 11th, 2017] [Originally Added On: March 11th, 2017]
- Barack Obama Vacation Pictures: Brando Island, South Pacific | JetSet - Bravo (blog) [Last Updated On: March 21st, 2017] [Originally Added On: March 21st, 2017]
- Fancy a stay on a private island in Tasmania? - SpiceNews [Last Updated On: March 23rd, 2017] [Originally Added On: March 23rd, 2017]
- NYC's latest real estate boom? Private islands - New York Post [Last Updated On: March 29th, 2017] [Originally Added On: March 29th, 2017]
- 250000: A private island in the Philippines or a one-bed flat in Oxford? - The Oxford Times [Last Updated On: March 29th, 2017] [Originally Added On: March 29th, 2017]
- Private island in the Philippines or a one-bed flat in Oxford? They cost the same... - The Oxford Times [Last Updated On: March 31st, 2017] [Originally Added On: March 31st, 2017]
- Destination Wedding Ideas: Elope to a Private Island in the Maldives - Vogue.com [Last Updated On: April 2nd, 2017] [Originally Added On: April 2nd, 2017]
- Fiji's luxury Vatuvara Private Islands - Gourmet Traveller Magazine Australia [Last Updated On: April 10th, 2017] [Originally Added On: April 10th, 2017]
- Peter Island Resort - British Virgin Islands Vacations [Last Updated On: April 14th, 2017] [Originally Added On: April 14th, 2017]
- Here's Why Telunas Private Island Is The Ultimate Island Escape ... - Weekender Singapore [Last Updated On: April 15th, 2017] [Originally Added On: April 15th, 2017]
- Maldives? Tahiti? No, this luxury island is not where you'd expect ... - Stuff.co.nz [Last Updated On: April 17th, 2017] [Originally Added On: April 17th, 2017]
- 5 beautiful Scottish islands to rent - The Scotsman [Last Updated On: April 17th, 2017] [Originally Added On: April 17th, 2017]
- This pokey home may not look like much, but it comes with something special to justify its 150k price tag - The Sun [Last Updated On: April 17th, 2017] [Originally Added On: April 17th, 2017]
- 5 Private Islands You Can Rent on Airbnb for Under $1000 - Huffington Post [Last Updated On: April 21st, 2017] [Originally Added On: April 21st, 2017]
- Vacation's over: Obama returning to public life - The Seattle Times [Last Updated On: April 23rd, 2017] [Originally Added On: April 23rd, 2017]
- Susan Stamper Brown: After an 8-year vacuum of leadership, Obama lives the life of a rajah - Tulsa World [Last Updated On: April 25th, 2017] [Originally Added On: April 25th, 2017]
- Keeping Cumberland pristine and honoring private rights - Savannah Morning News [Last Updated On: April 27th, 2017] [Originally Added On: April 27th, 2017]
- Turtle Island, Fiji: Unforgettable island offers more than just luxury - Stuff.co.nz [Last Updated On: April 27th, 2017] [Originally Added On: April 27th, 2017]
- Paradise by the week - Business Jet Traveler [Last Updated On: April 27th, 2017] [Originally Added On: April 27th, 2017]
- Cayman Islands Vacation Rentals, 7 Mile Beach, Grand ... [Last Updated On: April 27th, 2017] [Originally Added On: April 27th, 2017]
- Australian Islands | Private Islands Online Australia [Last Updated On: April 27th, 2017] [Originally Added On: April 27th, 2017]
- 5 idyllic private island retreats - CNN.com - CNN [Last Updated On: April 28th, 2017] [Originally Added On: April 28th, 2017]
- Bahubali 2 Box Office Collection crosses Rs 500 crore worldwide: Private islands, castles & other things Baahubali ... - India.com [Last Updated On: May 2nd, 2017] [Originally Added On: May 2nd, 2017]
- Disney Offering Cruises That Spend 2 Days at Their Private Island - Cruise Fever [Last Updated On: May 2nd, 2017] [Originally Added On: May 2nd, 2017]
- 5 private islands you can rent on Airbnb - The Week Magazine [Last Updated On: May 2nd, 2017] [Originally Added On: May 2nd, 2017]
- The Fyre Festival debacle raises an important question: Why do rich people love islands so much? - Quartz [Last Updated On: May 4th, 2017] [Originally Added On: May 4th, 2017]
- This stunning Decatur Island cabin is the next best thing to owning a private island - Seattlemag [Last Updated On: May 4th, 2017] [Originally Added On: May 4th, 2017]
- 7 epic bachelorette getaways the future bride will never forget - Access Atlanta [Last Updated On: May 6th, 2017] [Originally Added On: May 6th, 2017]
- Marsa Al Arab project near Burj Al Arab to feature two new luxury islands - The National [Last Updated On: May 14th, 2017] [Originally Added On: May 14th, 2017]
- David Beckham to buy private island for wife... - Hamilton Spectator [Last Updated On: May 14th, 2017] [Originally Added On: May 14th, 2017]
- 5 places to check out in St. Vincent and the Grenadines - Toronto Star [Last Updated On: May 17th, 2017] [Originally Added On: May 17th, 2017]
- Paradise in the heart of the far east | Inquirer Business - Inquirer.net [Last Updated On: May 20th, 2017] [Originally Added On: May 20th, 2017]
- Treasure islands - a choice of five on the market - Irish Independent [Last Updated On: May 20th, 2017] [Originally Added On: May 20th, 2017]
- Top 10 travel deals of the week - Starts at 60 [Last Updated On: May 22nd, 2017] [Originally Added On: May 22nd, 2017]
- Fancy your own island? Here are four islands on the market in Ireland - Irish Independent [Last Updated On: May 22nd, 2017] [Originally Added On: May 22nd, 2017]
- Pippa Middleton jets off to 3K-per-night luxury island honeymoon destination - Evening Standard [Last Updated On: May 26th, 2017] [Originally Added On: May 26th, 2017]
- Three Surprisingly Affordable (Semi-) Private Island Resorts - The Manual (blog) [Last Updated On: May 26th, 2017] [Originally Added On: May 26th, 2017]
- Kiplinger's Personal Finance: Get a great deal on your next getaway - Richmond.com [Last Updated On: May 28th, 2017] [Originally Added On: May 28th, 2017]
- State plans sale of 6 affordable housing complexes across three islands - Hawaii Tribune Herald [Last Updated On: May 30th, 2017] [Originally Added On: May 30th, 2017]
- Pippa Middleton and James Matthews spotted honeymooning in Sydney - Camden Haven Courier [Last Updated On: June 1st, 2017] [Originally Added On: June 1st, 2017]
- "Capturing the Quintessential Miami Water Views" Ross100 Condo Reports: What That Miami View Is Worth - PR Newswire (press release) [Last Updated On: June 1st, 2017] [Originally Added On: June 1st, 2017]
- Meet Trudeau's new language commissioner A Liberal insider who barely speaks English - The Rebel [Last Updated On: June 3rd, 2017] [Originally Added On: June 3rd, 2017]