An aerial view of Quirimbas Archipelago Photo: Courtesy of Azura Retreats: Quilalea
At one point or another, weve all had the dream of being stranded on a tropical island in an elegant, beach-babe kind of waythink a little less Tom Hanks in Castaway and a little more Brooke Shields in The Blue Lagoon . Surprisingly enough, there are very few destinations where you can do this. Of course, there are countless tropical islands out there, but the real challenge is finding the right ones. The Caribbean, while temptingly close, is more often than not quite touristy and overdeveloped. And if you are adventurous enough to set your sights a little further abroad, far-flung destinations such as the Seychelles and Maldives might fit the bill at first blush, but even islands such as those might feel a bit too pampered and pre-packaged. The truth is, if you find the right kind of remote island, five-star amenities might feel a bit at-odds with the natural landscape. And in settings as beautiful as these, you need a little more than a rum punch and a bikini to enjoy yourself.
Consider the Quirimbas Archipelago: Located off of the untamed northeastern shore of Mozambique , this stretch of islands is a castaways dream. Flying overheadas you will likely do, because many of the islands are accessible only via a short helicopter from the mainlandthe archipelago seems less like the chain of 30 or so islands that it is, and more like one continuous natural wonder. There are wild sprawls of lush mangrove forests, jagged coral, limestone outcrops, and gently ebbing flows of the impossibly clear Indian Ocean. At low tide, because these waters are so shallow, the tide pulls out so far that sandbars can stretch for literally miles. Its hard to describe how pristine and unspoiled this part of the world ismostly because there isnt really anything else like it out there.
The Quirimbas Islands are not easy to get to, which is both a blessing and a curse. You wont find a Marriott or a St. Regis, but instead, youll find a handful of camps and retreats, where luxury is measured not in amenities or Michelin stars, but in solitude and outdoor showers. There are many private island retreats, and the Azura Retreats property located on Quilalea sets the benchmark in this region. At just 86 acres, the island accommodates up to eighteen guests, meaning that if you dont want to see another soul from your waterfront villa, you dont have to. A dedicated staff is on hand at all hours to make sure you have what you need, whether thats a glass of wine, a snorkel, or a Band-Aid. And although you are truly in the middle of nowhere, the propertys managers ensure that dinner each night feels like an occasion. One night, it might be set up under a sky full of stars like youve never seen (there is zero light pollution here); the next night, dinner might be by candlelight under one of the islands 58 baobab trees. Again, the luxuriousness of a place like Quilalea has nothing to do with infinity pools and Michelin stars (although the food is excellent and perfectly fresh); its all about the extravagance of getting away from it all.
But the benefit of seeking such barefoot luxury is also, in turn, its own challengein such a remote place, there are only a handful of places to stay. In addition to Quilalea, Anantara and &Beyond operate significantly glitzier operations on the private islands of Medjumbe and Vamizi, respectively, and history buffs might feel more at home at the Ibo Island Lodge , a cluster of colonial buildings located on the edge of town on Ibo Island. If this seems like a lot of information to process, the Mozambique Tourism Board has some excellent recommendations about where to stay, how to get there, and what to do.
How to Get There Because of the areas Portuguese colonial history, there are actually a few direct flights to Mozambique through Lisbon, but most travelers end up flying to Maputo or Pemba by way of Johannesburg or Dar es Salaam. Coordinate with your hosts to figure out the best way from there (usually by boat or by helicopter). Because of the remote location, the Quirimbas Islands are a perfect add-on to your existing African itinerary. After all the action and engagement of, for example, a safari in Tanzania or a wine-tasting in South Africa, a few days of beachy tranquility on the Indian Ocean will provide much-deserved respite.
What to Do Oddly enough, for a place that is so remote, the Quirimbas are still touched by traces of culture and history. Remote islands such as the Maldives are often criticized for having become too resort-centric and sanitized, but these islands are oddly frozen in time. Home to indigenous fishing cultures for thousands of years, they have been successively colonized and influenced by Arab traders and Portuguese colonists. This might be the only place you can cruise from island to island on a rickety ancient Arab dhow boat and practice your Portuguese with the captain at the same time. Wherever youre staying, make sure to ask for a sunset dhow ride. You wont be disappointed.
A day trip to Ibo Island is illustrative of the regions history. At one time, it served as a major shipping port and center of the slave tradeonly four grand Portuguese forts still stand. Today, about half the town of Ibo consists of abandoned Portuguese architecture, which in itself is a sight to behold. Dense mangroves and thick vines grow over pale adobe walls, brightly colored doors and painted tiles, creating a tableau of distinctly African, Arab, and European influence you are unlikely to find anywhere else.
And of course, these being tropical islands, you would be remiss in not taking advantage of the water sports. Because of the shallow, immaculate waters, the Quirimbas Islands offer world-class snorkeling and scuba diving, with some resorts offering walk-out reefs just a few meters off the beach. Keep an eye out for sea turtles, starfish, and enough vibrant aquatic life to give Finding Nemo a run for its money. As for those epic, miles-long sandbars at low-tides, dont forget to go for a marine walk in order to see all those ocean creatures up close.
Whether you choose to explore neighboring islands or just lounge on your beach chair, make sure to work up an appetite. The cuisine is very seafood-heavy (as it should be, with waters this pure), and always comes with just the right amount of Portuguese inflection. A classic Quirimbas lunch consists of grilled prawns served with chilis, and fiery piri-piri saucea combination so good, its worth flying halfway around the world for.
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