Category Archives: Zeitgeist Movement

A cleverly configured clutch of 33 lightly used shipping containers has found a new home in the shadow of the Grove Shafter Freeway, just a block west of the MacArthur BART station. Stacked three stories high and faced west and south for maximum light and air, MacArthur Annex feels like a happy hybrid while reflecting its Oakland locale at a critical juncture.

Amid the rise of the Temescal and Uptown neighborhoods and ascending rents and fears of gentrification the annexs twenty-seven 150-square-foot spaces have become storefronts, offices and studios for entrepreneurs, artists and writers, at relatively affordable prices. Meanwhile, its eco-friendly construction embodies the spirit of creative reuse and the areas history.

The way I always think about it is, the port is right there, says architect Matt Baran, who worked with owner and developer Caleb Inman to create the compound, which rolled out last fall. If you drive anywhere in Oakland, youre always confronted by containers, either on the backs of trucks or loaded onto ships.

My neighbor has a Victorian, and the guy down the street has a Victorian, but instead youre connecting to a context that has these maybe more distant connections. Youre looking at a larger picture.

The project is also holding a mirror up to a creative class finding its feet amid the citys seismic shifts. Yes, the annex overlooks a newly opened beer garden and pizza spot, Arthur Macs Tap & Snack, a nod to a similarly situated San Francisco institution, Zeitgeist (and co-helmed by the same Farm League group that runs Uptowns wildly popular Drakes Dealership). MacArthur Annex also harbors some of the DIY passion and creative energy thats fueled the Bay Area music and art scene since the 00s.

The same low-key, like-minded friendly excitement sparked by indie co-ops, backyard house parties and pop-up art openings was in the air at the annexs Second Sundays open studio, music and art event in February.

Kids in brightly colored sunglasses slouched outside the annex as the No Worries food truck served up vegan Filipino platters next to Rolling Sloanes stand selling pop tarts and pecan pie slices. In the courtyard inside, visitors plucked 60s sundresses and 80s dolman-sleeve knits from Ringo Vintages racks and sniffed candles in Foggy Notion, the apothecary owned by former Vetiver cellist and photographer Alissa Anderson.

Near a table of goodies raffled off as an ACLU benefit, neighbors checked out the sculptural works by Kristina Lewis in a space shared by Small Works and Sweeney/Kaye Gallery. Listeners watched from the floors overlooking the courtyard as local band Never Young generated waves of shoegaze pop below. It felt like an indie utopia in the making, dreaming in solar-powered, sustainably built boxes. While some of the faces were familiar, others were new. Here are some of the more genre-bending tenants of MacArthur Annex.

Contact Records

Politicized, passionate and veterans of local bands Grass Widow and Trainwreck Riders, respectively, Hannah Lew and Andrew Kerwin know the score and the married San Francisco natives were convinced theyd never get to live the Bay Area dream.

For years now, weve been feeling like everything is out of our reach, and all these people with a ton of money are setting up a paradigm we cant exist in. Then this came about, says Lew of the 19-by-7-foot space that houses their store, Contact Records. It feels a little dystopian to be in a shipping container. Is this what we can really afford in 2017 in the Bay Area?

Thanks to subsidized rent, the pair were able to open the first storefront at the annex, and judging by the smiling regulars and customers flipping through the vinyl at a recent Second Sundays, its holding its own simply by serving up what its owners love.

The Sheer Mag, Big Star, Kleenex and Liliput LPs, and international pop obscurities, in the front window announce Lew and Kerwins fascinations. Between the crammed, multilevel bins of vinyl, a rakishly tilted shelf of cassettes and a turntable listening station, they pack a lot of inventory into the sunlit space.

Their only conditions: The LPs have to be in great shape and the music has to be good. Otherwise they carry every genre, making sure to rotate in gems like, say, the odd Beatles Butcher cover. And Lews proud that they can cater to the neighborhoods nostalgic old-timers as well as indie nerds and beat makers searching for fresh samples, all while selling their collectibles at fair prices.

Theyd been stockpiling LPs for years before they learned of the annex. Quitting their jobs at 1-2-3-4 Go! Records in S.F. and Oakland, they embarked on an epic cross-country record-digging trip across the Midwest to gather even more inventory.

We kind of have the luxury of only carrying stuff we believe in, says Lew, who also plays in Cold Beat and releases music by bands like Tropic Green. We dont have to carry Taylor Swift records.

Lower Grand Radio

Unity was in the air upstairs at MacArthur Annex at Lower Grand Radio in February.

Next to a compact broadcasting setup read: a mixer and laptop friends toting skateboards checked out an exhibit of candy-colored decks painted with cuddling nude dudes created by Unity Skateboardings Jeffrey Cheung. Meanwhile, Alex Shen, who runs the Internet radio station, was selling mixtapes and giving away copies of Everybody Sk8s, a zine filled with anecdotes from badazz womxn/non-cis-male skateboarders and rollerbladers.

Everybody was on the same page that day, Shen explains later by email, while on tour in Japan with his band, Meat Market, and his group with Cheung, also called Unity.

Jeffrey has always been into skateboarding but felt like the common culture around it lacks the presence of queer identity. Unity skateboarding has been an outlet for him to blend painting and skateboarding while bringing people together to do something much like Lower Grand Radio, without the pressure of outside regulations, Shen says of his space mates. Just get together with friends and do something positive and affirming set the bar as high as we want. Maybe no bar at all, you know what I mean?

Shen started his Internet radio project after volunteering at KALX and DJing for UC Santa Cruzs KZSC. It seemed like the perfect way to keep busy and meet new people.

There are so many people doing radio streams with legendary programming around the world, but it did feel really good to do it from my windowless garage and go live whenever it felt right.

His mission, like that of the best public radio, is centered around his community and free-form, uncensored mobile programming Anyone can DJ for Lower Grandwhether theyre a friend like Andrew Oswald, who runs Secret Bathroom Recording Studio, or teens at the Oakland Public Library, where Shen works. Techno, dance hall, funk, metal, womens issues all are permitted. (The shows are archived at http://www.lowergrandradio.com.)

I think as you get older, it is easy for your world and community to get smaller, Shen continues. I thought creating a space for people to hang out and share music with, potentially, an infinite amount of people, or anyone with an Internet connection, would be really cool.

The Hanged Man Co.

Foraging florist, fortune-teller and printmaker Matthew Drewry Baker clearly believes in magic, both within and without, as he puts it on Instagram.

His MacArthur Annex studio and shop is an expression of that belief. Baker has transformed his container space into a wildly romantic jewel box with witchy, deep blue-green walls ornamented with vintage perfume bottles and other treasures and presided over by twisting masses of jasmine mixed with freesia and calla lilies, all drawn from friends Bernal Heights gardens or foraged from the edges of busy byways.

I think a lot of florists overlook fennel, for instance, by the freeway and in the cracks of the sidewalk it grows to such an exuberant height, Baker says. Passion vine theres a huge lot by the side of the Bernal Heights freeway that doesnt belong to anyone and nobody cares about.

We live in the Bay Area and theres so much beauty, he adds. We dont have to necessarily fly flowers out of Holland. Why use pesticides and poison? I try to forage and glean as much as I can myself because a lot of farmed things are too straight up and down, too perfect, anyway. I want it to resemble how things naturally grow in the wild, not a product of agribusiness. I want things that are a strange shape or have their own movement.

At a recent March Second Sundays event, branches of yellow mustard blossoms and nasturtium greet strangers at the door. Boughs of plum and Michelia Magnolia hover near the door near moon calendars by artist friend Annie Axtel.

Beneath a cumulus cloud of dried hydrangeas, Baker resplendent in a jaunty straw hat, striped tank, strings of beads, and turquoise and silver bangles and rings is giving tarot readings on a lace-layered table. Ive always thought the Tower and Five of Wands cards were bad news, but conventional interpretations fall away in Bakers fortune-telling sessions, in a way that feels deeply intuitive.

Flowers and divination correlate weirdly, Baker muses. When youre foraging, walking around and driving around and looking to see whats growing wild, you make mental maps of your area. Its similar when youre paying attention to whats going on with yourself and the energy. You make mental maps and its more about paying attention and being really observant.

Inspired and tutored by his gardening, tarot-reading mother, as well as former employer and Foraged Flora author Louesa Roebuck, the Martinez-bred Baker started the Hanged Man Co. three years ago.

Baker also makes rune symbol-embellished talismans and linocut cards, which evolved from his drawing and printmaking studies at the Academy of Art University.

Florimancy, of course, plays into his divination work and hes been studying the lost language of flowers for a series of divination dinners to begin this spring. My card is the Hanged Man a card thats apt for my business, he offers. Its about removing yourself from the thick of things and honing your instincts, using action through inaction, allowing things to come to you and trusting youll be on the right path.

Theres something about nature, the floral arrangements, and not trying to force it, letting a branch thats so strange dictate to me. I use it as an ally and not something to fight against.

Kimberly Chun is an East Bay freelance writer. Email: style@sfchronicle.com.

Ship this

MacArthur Annex harbors tenants ranging from Robin Sloan, best-selling author of Mr. Penumbras 24-Hour Bookstore, to pop-up shop Doublewood Denim. Look for these makers and shopkeepers:

Aloeswood Beauty: Wild-crafted, organic plant products are at the center of aesthetician, bodywork specialist, yoga teacher and nutritional coach Christy Swensons practice. The Alaskan-born, self-described healer offers facials, dry-skin brushing, hot stones, cupping, Tibetan scalp massage and foot reflexology. No. 301. https://christy-swenson.squarespace.com/

Foggy Notion: Local music watchers got an eyeful of owner Alissa Andersons band photos and album art during the 00s. Now her shop (its moniker calls back to the Velvet Underground tune) gives you a snapshot of Bay Area and Cali crafters in the form of organic skin care, ceramics, totes and backpacks, honey, kitchen goods and fragrance, along with pop-up appearances by Have Company zine and book concern. No. 102. https://foggynotionsf.wordpress.com.

La Loba: The name hints at the old souls behind these eternal pieces. Beth Naumann of Oaklands Hellbent hand-makes draped brass and fringe collar necklaces, jewelry, hairpins and sculptural mobiles, whereas local designer Gina Di Girolamo strives for ease and simplicity of form in her silk, linen and hand-dyed rayon tops and dresses. No. 103. http://www.shoplaloba.com.

Sweeney Kaye/Small Works Oakland: Women artists are the 2017 focus at this compact gallery shared by Sweeney Kaye and Small Works Oakland. No. 108. http://www.sweeneykayegallery.com.

Waterandstone and Stace Fulwiler: California College of the Arts instructor Amy Morrell based the bold geometric curves of her latest mini collection of hand-forged brass pendants on the human form. Expect handmade leather sandals, slides and clogs by Stace Fulwiler at this shared showroom, open during Second Sundays. No. 107. http://www.stacefulwiler.com; http://www.watersandstone.com.

MacArthur Annex: 644 40th St., Oakland. https://macarthurannex.com, http://www.facebook.com/

macarthurannex.

Contact Records: No. 104. https://www.facebook.com/contactrecordshop/, Instagram: @contact_records/.

Lower Grand Radio: No. 208. http://www.lowergrandradio.com, Instagram @unitymart

The Hanged Man Co.: No. 109. http://thehangedmanco.bigcartel.com, Instagram: @thehangedmanco/

Kimberly Chun

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Shipping containers launch creative enclave in Oakland - San Francisco Chronicle

France's far-left presidential candidate Jean-Luc Melenchon was never supposed to get this close to the Elysee Palace.

Once a distant fifth in the running for the French presidency, the Communist-backed candidate's trademark quick wit and eloquent anti-capitalist discourse delivered over two televised debates have catapulted him into third in the polls, according to surveys.

The sudden surge in popularity has seen the firebrand leftist reportedly overtake conservative Francois Fillon, once considered the frontrunner, and to within touching distance of far-right leader Marine Le Pen and centrist Emmanuel Macron.

A radical economist

This year's French election has been characterizedas a contest between the traditional center-ground and a wave of anti-establishment populism.

Economic stagnation and lackluster job growth have shift support towards what were once considered the fringes of the spectrum.And tainted by scandal, the electorate has been left disillusioned with the traditional left and right parties.

Read more:France's fractured Left visible in industrial Lille

Having denounced France's austerity polices, Melenchon has promised to heavily tax the rich and increase public spending.The most radical rate would see all earnings of above 400,000 euros ($425,000) taxed at 100 percent - placing, in other words, a salary cap on high earners. That, he says, would enable the state to increase public spending by 173 billion euros over five years.

His campaign pledge has also prompted the conservative daily "Le Figaro" to label Melenchon the "French Chavez." In an editorial, the newspaper to declare that, under the far-left politician, France would be forced to import its own wine and cheese.

Melenchon hit back at accusations from the center in his blog on his blog: "Once again my election victory is being announced like the onset of a nuclear winter, a plague of frogs, the Red Army's tanks and the landing of the Venezuelans."

Market jitters

However, it's Melenchon's euroskeptism and pledge to review France's role within the EU and across a series of trade pacts that havethe markets spooked.

Read more:Would 'Frexit' mean economic disaster?

Melenchon's surge in the polls has made the euro and eurozone bond yields vulnerable to investor unease. With at least one of the two euroskeptic candidates in Melenchon and Le Pen expected to perform well in the first round of voting, the euro could find itself in store for some punishment. If both were to make the runoff vote, analysts would likely anticipate an impending"Frexit"and collapse of the single currency.

Swiping voters from under Le Pen's nose

Although Melenchon's anti-EU, pro-industry campaign shares much of the same discourse as that of the National Front's (FN) Marine Le Pen, his rival on the far right, his rhetoric on Islam and immigration could not be more different. At a rally in the southern French city of Marseille Saturday, Melenchon urged is supporters to pay their respects to the thousands of refugees that have lost their lives trying to cross the Mediterranean Sea into Europe.

Read more:Tens of thousands rally in Paris as far-left candidate Melenchon launches campaign

Macron quit as economy minister in August and launched his independent presidential bid in November. The 39-year-old centrist formed his own political movement, En Marche (Forward), and is seen as a reformer. Despite having never held elected office, polls have predicted his win in the final round of voting in May. He's voiced admiration for German Chancellor Angela Merkel's refugee policy.

The National Front leader has adopted a more moderate tone than her anti-Semitic father, party founder Jean-Marie Le Pen. But she still takes a hard line on immigration, saying children of irregular migrants should not have access to public education. She also wants France to withdraw from the eurozone and have a referendum on EU membership. It's predicted she'll advance to the second round.

A surprise winner of the right-wing Republicans primaries, the socially conservative Fillon is seen to represent the interests of France's Catholic middle class. An admirer of former British Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher, he supports a liberal economic policy. Though Penelopegate and other scandals have marred Fillon's campaign, he has professed no wrongdoing and vowed to fight on.

In a runoff against former French PM Manuel Valls in the Socialist primary, Hamon was the more left-wing choice of the two politicians. The 49-year-old supports a universal basic income and wants to shorten the traditional work week. He has also spoken in support of increased investment in renewable energy. He faces an uphill battle as many socialist politicians have voiced support for Macron.

The Left Party's candidate landed fourth in the 2012 presidential elections. Melenchon, a current European Parliament member, believes the bloc's economic liberalism has stifled France. He hopes to profit from the center-left's disarray, but may split votes with socialist Hamon. Supported by the French Communist party, Melenchon advocates a shorter work week and climate protection.

Author: Samantha Early

A major qualm for prospective FNvoters is the party's authoritarian and anti-Semiticpast. While Le Pen has done her utmost to reconcile the party of its former image,Melenchon's populism with a heart has helped him stake out the opposition ground from her.

A star in the digital age

Although Le Pen Pen has so far taken most of the spoils from France's populist mood, Melenchon has been tapping into the populist zeitgeist for years. Nowhere is this more evident that in his online presence. His website is reported to be the most visited out of all other candidates, while his YouTube channel enjoys the most views, comments and subscribers. One such video showed him turning him up at a McDonald's to join a blockade of workers seeking pay rises.

Similar to Bernie Sanders' presidential campaign in the US, Melenchon's viral appeal has seen him become a hit with young French voters. Ifop poll, 23 percent of voters under 35 say they intend to vote for Melenchon - 4 percent fewer than those who intend to vote for the 39-year-old Macron, but far ahead of all other candidates.

Fiscal Kombat: One fan's digital homage to France's far-left candidate.

Melenchon's economic policy is perhaps best encapsulated by a popular video game put out by his supporters called Fiscal Kombat. In it, a rudimentary caricature of Melenchon grabs by the shoulders and shakes them until money begins falling out f their pockets. That money, which the game implies has been stolen from public coffers, goes back towards building a fairer economy.

In typical fashion, Melenchon didn't just endorse the game;his campaign team uploaded a video of him playing it.

dm/kms(AFP, Reuters, dpa)

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What's behind far-left candidate Melenchon's surge in the French polls? - Deutsche Welle

Apr. 13, 2017 at 5:31 AM

U.S. Rep. Maxine Waters of California on Capitol Hill in Washington.

Its almost certain youve seen Rep. Maxine Waters recently.

Bill OReilly said her hair reminded him of a James Brown wig and Waters clapped back I am a strong black woman and cannot be intimidated. The Internet promptly began worshipping at what Elle, a frequent chronicler of Waterss cable appearances, called the Church of Maxine.

But Waters was on a televised crusade long before OReillys sneering insult raised her profile. Shes been trying to insinuate impeachment into the Washington conversation surrounding President Trump. Not many other Democrats are doing the same; none at nearly the same volume, and it has made Waters the institutional voice of the lefts angry id in the Trump era.

By FiveThirtyEights count of television, radio and print interviews since January, starting a few days before the inauguration, Waters has made at least 22 public statements suggesting that investigations into the Trump administration could lead to the uncovering of impeachable offenses. Typically, Waters, who represents Californias 43rd District, brings up what she calls Trumps Kremlin Klan, asks why there are so many administration ties to Russia and says that if investigators drill down, theyre likely to find something worthy of impeachment.

Its not as if Waters is the only Democrat to have brought up impeachment so have Rep. Keith Ellison of Minnesota, Rep. Joaquin Castro of Texas and Rep. Jamie Raskin of Maryland. All four impeachment-minded members come from strongly Democratic districts. Hillary Clinton won 78 percent of the vote in Waterss district, 74 percent in Ellisons, 61 percent in Castros and 65 percent in Raskins. But Waters has been the loudest, most consistent voice for impeachment, even as House leader Nancy Pelosi has tried to tamp down such loose talk: [There] are grounds for displeasure and unease in the public about the performance of this president that is not grounds for impeachment, she said in February, right after Waters said that her greatest desire was to lead [Trump] right into impeachment.

As the leader, [Pelosi] has to be concerned about all facets of her caucus, Waters told me. I dont have the same responsibility. In other words, Waters doesnt feel burdened by restrictive politesse shes happy to burn bridges as a means to her ends, which is expelling Trump from the White House. This unvarnished style is why Waters has found so many new fans in the Democratic resistance set, particularly among younger voters.

The millennials are relating to me, Waters said. Its because I dare speak truth to power. Indeed an Auntie Maxine meme has spread so widely that Waterss office recently sent out a press release, Auntie Maxines Tax Day March Open Mic Reception, to promote an event this Friday in Washington. Waters gushes about the younger set whenever possible: I love what they taught me to say: stay woke, she said in a recent interview.

What her newest supporters might not know is that Waters is no stranger to controversy. She has long thrived by giving an insider voice to the outrage of the left zeitgeist at any particular time; this isnt even her first flirtation with impeachment talk for a Republican president. In 2007, Waters lent her support to a movement to impeach George W. Bush and Vice President Dick Cheney, calling it one of the most important efforts this country has ever seen. In 1998, she called the moves toward Bill Clintons impeachment a Republican coup detat.

After winning election to the House in 1990, Waters gained national notice in the aftermath of the 1992 Los Angeles riots as a voice of the black community there. The New York Times wrote that, more than any other political leader representing Los Angeles, more even than Mayor Tom Bradley, Mrs. Waters seemed to be all over the airwaves, acting as a voice of the disenfranchised after the unrest broke out. She scared some people and angered others by focusing on justifying rather than condemning the violent reaction to the verdict.

Waters offered not a defense of the rioters, but an explanation for their actions and bluntly pointed out that she thought the white establishment in media and government had a blind spot. There really are expectations from whites and white journalists that were going to go out there and say, Cool it, baby, cool it, she told the Times. But thats all they want us to do. I know how to talk to my people. I know how to get my point across and I think I did it.

A fiery style has served Waters well but also opened her to institutional reprimand, and she has been accused of unethical behavior during her time in Congress; she was charged by the House Ethics Committee in 2010 for helping bail out a bank in which her husband owned stock. She was later exonerated. In 1994, she got in a disagreement with Republican Rep. Peter King of Long Island, whom she felt he had mistreated a female witness during the Whitewater hearings. The day is over when men can badger and intimidate women! Waters shouted from the podium.

You are always out of order, King said to her, to which Waters replied, You are out of order. Shut up. On CSPAN footage of the incident, a number of House aides can be seen gathering by the chairs desk, consulting; it turns out they were looking for the Mace of The House of Representatives to present to Waters (an official punitive measure) but they couldnt figure out where it was.

While such a high-octane style might have seemed out of place with the more staid politics of the 1990s or at least we can look back from the perilous perch of 2017 and call them staid the national political conversation has gradually come around to where Waters, the consummate partisan, could always be found. The year 2017 seems to be the moment Waters was destined for, and she knows it.

I felt that this was the life I wanted to have, she said of politics. Where I could do something meaningful and could change some of the injustice and undermining in this country.

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Maxine Waters Isn't Afraid To Talk Impeachment - FiveThirtyEight

Its not easy being a pioneer.

Mother and daughter, Elisa Goodkind and Lily Mandelbaum forged forward with their progressive web site, Stylelikeu.com, even when blogs especially those promoting unique, non-conformist style during the height of genericfast fashion were blips on the industrys radar. But as their web site tookoff, so didits mission in a grander sense. Authenticity and self-acceptanceclimbed the ranks of priority to the socially swayed Millennials and Gen Zers.

Today, the duo released their second book, True Style Is Whats Underneath: The Self-Acceptance Revolution published by Rizzoli. The edition is an analog variation of its wildly successful Whats Underneath video series thatshowcases subjects in and out of their clothes, stripping down bodies and personal barriers. Girls leading ladyJemima Kirke, socialite and actress Tallulah Willis, and Orange Is the New Black actressLea DeLaria have sat for interviews.

In all of Mandelbaum and Goodkinds endeavors a college tour and live filmings are in the works authenticity is top priority. And while they have encountered plenty of their share of challenges it is a start-up, after all the retail and fashion markets are catching up to share in the need for unrivaled reality. Glammed-up, air-brushed and idealized models are making way for more wrinkled, rumpled and all-around imperfect looksthat resonate with a broader consumer audience.

Here, the StyleLikeU founders discuss their new book, the shift in the consumer mind-set and their perspective on the need for diversity in the fashion apparel market.

WWD: Tell us about the book what can StyleLikeU followers expect?

Elisa Goodkind: Here we include ourpoint-of-view of the journey weve been on and what weve discovered in terms of self-acceptance and whatsbehind style and beauty over theyears. We wanted to express the deep knowledge that weve gained from hundreds of interviews and put that into words.

We wanted to pull together what StyleLikeU has meant to us and what weve learned from doing the closet interviews and Whats Underneath. It forced us to take a birds-eyeview of what were doing and make sense of it. It forced us to get very precise and articulate our message of how beauty and style is all about the spirit on the inside. Theres the external expression and the joy of that, which is super important.

WWD: Youre on the ground meeting with various individuals who have encountered adversity due to their characteristics likeracism and gender. Are you detecting a shift in peoples willingness to share their experiences?

E.G.: I think that Pandoras box has been opened. Theres the beginning of an understanding that tomake the world betteris to remove the shame thats been built around almost everything single thing about us. Weve been made to be ashamed about every aspect of ourselves to make us buy a lot of things.

Lily Mandelbaum: I think that the opening of that conversation has started and its really come from social media, Instagram and from people being able to get away from the middleman and express themselves the way they want to. Clearly there is an audience for that, so slowly the power is being handed back to the people. There is going to be a tremendous amount of undoing and that undoing is long road ahead. I feel like people need to first understand that there is a problem.

WWD:Where do you think most individuals are in terms of comfort and willingness toopenly share their differences?

E.G.: People are just beginning to understand and like any big revolution in the world, it begins with the smaller amount of people who are on the forefront. The thinkers are the ones that people follow. Its a tsunami right now, but the level of undoing has a ways to go.

Right now theres a lot of focus about body image andcurviness, and its the beginning of [addressing body image issues in the media]. But the areas and ways in which people have been made to feel bad about themselves goes so deep race, age, gender, sexuality, disabilities. Our hope for what were doing is for people to recognize that the beauty is in how unrepeatable every single person is. We want to spread the message: You are like no one else. That is the gift.

WWD: We constantly report on Millennial and Generation Z demographics craving authenticity from their social outlets and favorite brands. Is this a fad or do you think this new priority is an evolution in a larger shift in the group mind-set?

E.G.: I feel like theres no turning back. The whole system will have to change or collapse. When people know that they can feel good about themselves, why would they continue to feel badly about themselves?

L.M.: The things that people buy will shift. When youre not blindly consuming in imagerythats affecting your self-image, what youre consuming will change. Blind consumerism has created so many of these problems. People have been blindly following images of the body type of the modeland then buy what the model is wearing to try to look like them. I think people are becoming more awakened and conscious on every level.

WWD: Do you think fast fashion has become prescriptive?The sizing system has come under fire with inaccuracies thats called into question the need for categorization in general.

L.M.: Ideally the utopia is that there isnt a distinction and its personalities that matter. Anyone who has the confidence to embody clothes in an inspiring way will be models. I think the plus-size model movement is the first step you have to do that first before you can meld it together. The tokenization of race and sexual identification will be next to be leveled.

E.G.: I think that the future of fashion will be the exploration of the individual. Its something thats coming from the inside that in turn will create a completely different market.

L.M.: Hopefully the market will become lots of small designers and artists who speak to different people. Smaller and more niche communities rather than mass for everyone.

WWD: What youre suggesting sounds like a return to the tradition of visitinga specialized artisan or designer for a niche product.

E.G.: I think it will be so great for designers who have been alienated by the system. It will be awesome for them to be artists its a win-win for everyone.

WWD: As a grassroots movement, what were the biggest challenges inbuilding the web site?

L.M.: The not-challenging part has been uncovering these incredible people and the sharing between us and the subjects, which is so easy and magical. I think that our biggest strength is in being inspired by their beauty and finding diverse people.

The hard part has been both marketing and the financial component. I think since starting Whats Underneath our message has crystallized so its been easier to get out there.

I think that when Whats Underneath videos started going viral really helped everythingtake off. That was a big turning point for us. I think the culture has really changed and the zeitgeist has caught up to what were doing as well.

E.G.: I think we made a big change around the new year with accepting outside support instead of the two of us doing every single thing. I think thats because theres been an overall change in the culture with people willing to work with us because they feel that its important to support our message.

L.M.: Financing has always been a struggle, but its gotten easier in the last couple of years. But its still difficult since were still non-commercial. Were really careful about the brands we collaborate with. We found a way and because were a small team were able to shift gears quickly depending on the moment we can shift our strategy for that week, month or year. Its very fluid.

E.G.: The curse is becoming part of the gift. The landscape requires usto be fluid. We want to give a platform to what is happening in the culture; what is the soul of the culture; what is the beauty of culture and being able to pivot quickly.

I think inthe future instead of things being so big that you cant change what youre doing fast enough, more businesses will downsize to be nimble social media has really helped change all of that.

WWD:With the book launch under way, what can we expect from StyleLikeU in the near future?

L.M.: The big news is an expansion is a series of open calls for a public Whats Underneath series. Were doing one on April 22and April 23 in New York. Its where anyone can put their name in a hat to be selected to do a live interview. We did one in London last year that was really magical.

E.G.: The audience was really involved and added a whole other dimension to it. It was amazing.

More from WWD:

Post-Aspirational, Consumers Seek Shareable Items Over Label Envy

Merchants Arent Prepared to Deal with Modern Consumers

Consumer Demands Spark Supply Chain Software Upgrades

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Ahead of the Zeitgeist: StyleLikeU Founders on the Rise of Authenticity - WWD

LONDON Mr Edward Enninful, the creative and fashion director of the American magazine W, is set to replace Ms Alexandra Shulman as editor-in-chief of British Vogue, its parent company Conde Nast confirmed on Monday.

The first man and the first black editor to take the helm of Britain's most powerful fashion publication in its 100-year history, he will begin his new role on Aug 1.

A top stylist and acclaimed fashion director who migrated to Britain from Ghana as a child, the 45-year-old is known for his cheerful demeanour, legendary fashion covers and having an army of loyal fans in and out of the fashion business. He received an Order of the British Empire in June last year for his services to diversity in the fashion industry.

Ms Vanessa Friedman, fashion director and chief fashion critic of The New York Times, tweeted: "Congratulations to @Edward-Enninful new editor of British Vogue! This is going to shake things up." Supermodel Naomi Campbell, a close friend of his, wrote on Instagram: "Today, history was made."

Conde Nast International chairman and chief executive Jonathan Newhouse called Mr Enninful "an influential figure in the communities of fashion, Hollywood and music, which shape the cultural zeitgeist", and added that "by virtue of his talent and experience, Edward is supremely prepared to assume the responsibility of British Vogue".

The appointment comes three months after Mr Newhouse named another man, Mr Emanuele Farneti, to the helm of Italian Vogue, following the death of Ms Franca Sozzani.

Mr Enninful was an unexpected choice. Born in Ghana, he was raised by his seamstress mother in the Ladbroke Grove area of London, alongside five siblings.

At 16, he became a model for the British magazine i-D after being scouted while travelling on the Tube, London's subway system. He has called modelling his "baptism into fashion".

By 17, he was assisting on photography shoots for the publication with stylists Simon Foxton and Beth Summers.

In 1991, at 18, he took over from Summers as i-D fashion editor, making him one of the youngest leaders of a major fashion publication. He also obtained a degree from Goldsmiths, University of London.

He was a driving force behind the "grunge" movement of the 1990s and became a contributing editor to Italian Vogue in 1998. He spearheaded the magazine's Black Issue, declaring his intention to end the "white-out that dominates catwalks and magazines". The issue was so successful that Conde Nast printed an extra 40,000 copies.

Another notable shoot depicted Linda Evangelista in Chanel, her face wrapped in bandages as if she had just had plastic surgery.

Although there are a handful of notable exceptions, the fashion industry has a dearth of black power players and that had been a source of immense frustration for Mr Enninful, who has made a considerable effort to improve things. He has made headlines with accusations of racism, including after he was assigned to sit in the second row at a couture show in Paris in 2013, when white "counterparts" were in the first.

NYTIMES

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British Vogue's first male editor in 100 years - The Straits Times

Allied Esports International and MGM Resorts International have penned a deal to create the first permanent eSports venue on the Las Vegas strip and promise to make it the eSports go-to venue, in much the same way Wembley and Wimbledon are for footie and tennis.

MGM has commissioned the conversion ofa 30,000 square-foot (2,800 square metre) former nightclub in its Luxor Hotel & Casino (the one with the actual pyramid and sphinx), into the Strips first permanent eSports venue, and, hopefully, the hub of big-ticket eSports events for the foreseeable future, with a promised opening as soon as early 2018.

We have very ambitious expansion plans over the next two years, and when we realized that a location at Luxor was possible, we jumped at the opportunity to develop our flagship here, said Jud Hannigan, CEO of Allied Esports International.

The space will be kitted out with gaming stations, LED video wall, state-of-the-art streaming capabilities, telescopic seating and a production studio worthy of big name TV studios. Of course, itll also cater to all the more mundane things weve come to expect of Las Vegas, thanks to its prime location.

Las Vegas already holds a reputation as a showcase for major indoor sporting events from Boxing to UFC it only makes sense to take the next step. With this venue, Allied Esports International hopes to capitalize on the Las Vegas name and project their brand into the golden age of spectator sports.

Allied Esports International, a joint venture of some of the biggest eSports franchises across the world), says it wants to continue building up its Esports Arena brand across North America, with plans to announce 10-15 Esports Arena locations in the next few years. Its also focusing on providing professional path for eSports athletes who want to go pro and fostering the whole ecosystem which revolves around an organized sport.

KitGuru Says: Nothing quite captures the Zeitgeist of a movement like having it turned into an actual Las Vegas venue on the Strip. It seems eSports is moving into its next stage of maturity.

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Las Vegas to get 30000 square foot eSports venue in 2018 - KitGuru

I feel like there are two competing approaches to this weeks review of Welcome Parlour Ice Cream.

The new craft ice cream shop recently opened in the beautiful and historic Hodson building at East Eighth Street and St. Andrews, an edifice that is also home to the charming Andrews on 8th caf.

The first approach would consider Welcome Parlour exclusively on its own merits, pointing out that it is a family business, owned and operated by longtime North Shore residents. I would go on to point out that Welcome has a great interior design, one that is very on point with a zeitgeist that favours rustic and reclaimed materials.

Further, I would mention that the shops service is friendly and knowledgeable (I had the benefit of the owners manning the fort on my visit), and I would relate the coincidence of being served by the son of the owners, a personable young guy who occupied the work station right next to mine during a sushi making class at Cook Culture in March of last year.

Moreover, I would remark on the fantastic full-wall mural that enlivens the shop, an impressive transfer of an archival photo of Lower Lonsdale in the early 1900s, during which time a popular general store, the Welcome Parlour, operated in the area. From this perspective, everything about this new business is firmly North Shore.

Well, almost.

You see, the competing approach to this review would be to take a step back and consider the origins of the current thriving craft ice cream movement in the city.

Now, for the sake of full transparency, I need to tell you that while working on another project, I had the benefit of sitting down for an in-depth interview last spring with the founders and operators of Earnest Ice Cream, the East Vancouver craft purveyor whose approach to the popular frozen treat has caught on like wild fire since its modest beginnings in 2012, reinvigorating latent or staid consumer appetites and spawning a veritable revolution in their category.

With this in mind, I feel it would be remiss not to point out that Welcome has clearly been inspired by Earnest. The design esthetic is strikingly similar, from the reclaimed wooden panelling right down to how the available ice cream flavours are displayed via hand-written signs affixed to hanging clips. Small-batch is the battle cry of both operators, and I noticed a few undeniably familiar flavours of ice cream on offer at Welcome, including Apple Pie and Vegan Lime Coconut.

Ultimately, I guess the question is: so what? Does taking a page from a successful business model detract in any way from the end consumer experience?

I turn to the craft brewing industry here for guidance, recalling the mantra so often repeated by leaders in that category: all ships rise with the tide. What is good for the category as a whole is surely good for each player within it. Brewers express open and warm fondness for other businesses in their industry, sometimes even collaborating on products with groups that are ostensibly their competitors; its a new paradigm that holds tremendous promise for the future of local, independent businesses.

There appears to be room enough for everyone in the craft beer space and I personally relish the wide selection available to me. Well find out soon enough how players in the artisanal ice cream category get along as Earnest has recently announced its imminent arrival on the North Shore, with plans to open in Lower Lonsdale.

I visited Welcome Parlour with my family; there was no way I was going to sneak this review in without the kids in tow. We visited a few days after the shops soft opening and found the place to be busy already with enthusiastic patrons.

True to its name, Welcome is very family-friendly, with wide-open spaces and smaller serving sizes available, which I greatly appreciate as it pains me to toss away any quantity of good quality ice cream once my kids appetites have been defeated. Kids servings, presented in a bowl, are just $3.50; add a buck if you want that serving in a cone. Regular cones are $5.50.

Perhaps predictably, I was enticed by the Whisky Maple ice cream and found it to be the best of the flavours sampled. This was a bold ice cream, decidedly adult, with ample woodsy, toasted malt and vanilla notes with a well-integrated, aromatic maple lift. My son, The Boy, went for Birthday Cake ice cream, a faithful recreation of a store-bought white cake with sprinkles, a sweet treat flavour the ubiquity of which confounds me. It feels so incongruous with the principles of craft anything, but perhaps that irony is the entire point. In any event, its a flavour bound to resonate with kids.

My daughter, now seven years old, surprised me by not selecting the heavily touted Rocky Road flavour, opting instead for Double Chocolate, which delivered on its names promise of ample chocolatey richness, satisfying in its simplicity.

My wife DJ chose what would have been my second choice, Apple Pie. This flavour positively dripped of artisanal creation, with rustic, coarsely chopped bits of tangy apple and crumbly crust featuring in nearly every bite and/or lick.

We rounded out the sampling with a kids cup of fruity, tart, and fragrant strawberry ice cream, a close runner-up to the Whisky Maple in terms of preference.

Flavours will change seasonally and Welcome has vociferously committed in its promotional communications to using all natural ingredients.

Welcome Parlour Ice Cream is located at 277 East Eighth St. in North Vancouver. welcomeparlour.com 604-408-7481

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THE DISH: Welcome Parlour Ice Cream serves up sweet treats - North Shore News

Zeshan Bagewadi's new album combines American funk and soul with Punjabi lyrics. Courtesy of the artist hide caption

Zeshan Bagewadi's new album combines American funk and soul with Punjabi lyrics.

Zeshan Bagewadi's new album, Vetted, sounds a lot like classic American funk and soul from the 1960s and '70s. The difference? He sometimes sings in Punjabi. Bagewadi was born in Chicago to parents who were Indian Muslim immigrants, and he learned about soul, funk and blues from his father's music collection.

"Through his work as a journalist, [my father] covered concerts," Bagewadi explains to NPR's Scott Simon. "He also did profiles on certain movements here in America literary movements, and did some work on the civil rights movement as well. And that very much informed his taste in music and aesthetics and style.

"My father was enamored of the music that he grew up around in 1960s, 1970s India, and the music of Pakistan. But in addition to that, through his work as a journalist he was given insight into soul music here in America, and he had a collection of records of Otis Redding, of James Brown, Marvin Gaye. ... And I guess the byproduct of that is me," he says.

For Bagewadi, soul isn't just a specific genre it's a feeling that pervades American and Indo-Pakistani music alike.

"There is soul music of India-Pakistan; it speaks of urban despair, of poverty, of unrequited love, of being down and out," he says. "And that was the plight of my parents, that was the plight of my grandparents. That's why they've decided to come here in search of something better. That zeitgeist is present in the music. And we know how to get down, we've got soul. We've got soul it's in our food, it's in our music and I feel very lucky to be a part of that."

Hear the rest of Bagewadi's conversation with NPR's Scott Simon at the audio link.

Web intern Jake Witz and web editor Rachel Horn contributed to this story.

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The Second-Generation Soul Of Zeshan Bagewadi : NPR - NPR

Oscar-winner Michael Douglas revealed the ups and downs in his film career during a live conversation with Ben Mankiewicz at the eighth annual TCM Classic Film Festival on Saturday. Held at Hollywoodshistoric Montalban Theatre, the two-hour discussion covered everything from Douglass early television roles to his work on Marvels upcoming Ant-Man and the Wasp. Here are some of the surprising highlights.

Hairy Beginnings

In 1969, Douglas made his feature debut in Hail, Hero! an obscure anti-war drama about a college student who joins the army during the Vietnam war. Arthur Kennedy played my father, and in the movie he takes my long hair and he chops it all off, Douglas said. So Im showing it to my dad (Kirk Douglas) and he said You should go to my barber. Theres a way to do that so it looks halfway decent, so you wont look like a total dork. Things didnt go quite that smoothly, however. For continuity, I had to wear a wig, a longhair wig, throughout the movie, Douglas said. So I go to put my hippie wig on and I look like Veronica Lake. Despite his shaggy appearance, the role earned him a Golden Globe nomination as most promising male newcomer.

Filling the Nest

Casting was crucial, Douglas said about his Oscar-winning adaptation of Ken Keseys novel One Flew Over the Cuckoos Nest. Douglas, who produced the film, worked closely with director Milos Forman to fill the fictional Oregon mental institution with the perfect rogues gallery of patients and staff. Several stars were approached to play the lead, including Gene Hackman and Marlon Brando, both who turned the part down. According to Douglas, Forman lobbied hard to cast Burt Reynolds in the role because he had what the director described as cheap charisma. Casting Nurse Ratched proved equally difficult. With all due respect to the ladies out there, Douglas said, the womans movement at that particular time said that a woman could not play the bad guy. Jane Fonda and Angela Lansbury passed on the role before Louise Fletcher was eventually cast.

Silent Meltdown

Douglas learned a valuable lesson about sound (or the lack thereof) while producing his next hit, The China Syndrome. The film depicts a series of accidents at a fictional nuclear power plant, culminating in a tense near-meltdown sequence. Yet in the editing room, something just didnt feel right to Douglas. We were doing our final mix, putting things together, and I was really impressed with our sound editors in terms of all these unique sounds they found for the control room, Douglas said. The problem came with the addition of music. Were doing the final mix and we had music by a very good guy, and this weird thing happened, Douglas said. All of a sudden we add the music and it became melodramatic. It lost its vitality. The risky solution was to remove the entire score. Without the music, it became taut, Douglas said.

Tragic Jewel

That was the lowest point in my producing career, Douglas said, referring to The Jewel of the Nile, the trouble-plagued followup to his blockbuster hit Romancing the Stone. The films difficult production was marked with repeated tragedy, including a plane crash in Morocco that killed six production team members, as well as the death of 39-year old screenwriter Diane Thomas, who wrote Romancing the Stone and consulted on the sequel. To thank Thomas for her contributions to the film, Douglas asked her what type of car she liked. She said a Porsche, and so I got her a Porsche, Douglas said. The last time I saw her was when she took me out to the parking lot to show me the Porsche. And then she got killed in a car accident in it two weeks later.

Stones Gambit

Douglas earned an Oscar for Best Actor in Oliver Stones 1987 financial drama Wall Street, in large part thanks to Stones psychological method of direction. Two weeks into shooting, Stone came to Douglass trailer with a serious problem. He said, Michael are you doing drugs? Because you look like youve never acted before in your life. Douglas, though concerned, had no idea what Stone was talking about. I never look at dailies, Douglas said, So I assumed Id better go take a look. And he said yeah, youd better. Not surprisingly, what he saw looked pretty good. The confrontation was a ruse on Stones part. Oliver wanted just a little bit more anger, Douglas said. He was willing to forgo our relationship to get that performance, and I went to town and worked my ass off after that conversation. According to Douglas, Stones Vietnam mentality is what made all the difference. He wants you in the trench with him.

Courting Controversy

The gritty 1993 thriller Falling Down gave Douglas one of his most memorable roles. It hit on the zeitgeist, Douglas said. Its a picture thats constantly brought up as one that people genuinely like. Thats not to say it wasnt without controversy, however. The films edgy violence and dark subject matter drew complaints from some ethnic groups. I remember for instance, there was a Korean grocers scene where I go in and go ballistic, Douglas said. Soon after the picture was released, I got a call from Warner Brothers, saying, Mike can you come down here? Wed like you to meet the head of the Korean grocers association. The group objected to the sequence, which they felt portrayed Koreans in a negative light. Douglas did his best to address their concerns. I tried to explain that theres a reason why the writer took the scene and made it what it is, Douglas said. And as a result of that meeting the Korean grocers association put those smile buttons on everyones shirts.

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Michael Douglas Shares Secrets of His Long Career, From 'Cuckoo's Nest' to 'Wall Street' - Variety

Fifty years ago, an estimated 100,00 people traveled to San Francisco to change their lives. They wound up changing the world.

Now this Pacific Coast city is celebrating the 50th anniversary of the Summer of Love, and everyones invited to the bountiful events that offer more reasons than ever to journey west.

Back in that time of peace, love and tie-dye, the Haight-Ashbury neighborhood drew hordes seeking alternative lifestyles, largely due to the presence of bands like the Grateful Dead, experimental artists, poets, social activists and the attention they garnered.

The scene seemed like a fantasy, and indeed mind-altering substances were involved. Free concerts filled streets and parks with fresh takes on folk, rock and jazz music. Pop art dazzled the eye and mind, notably in concert and be-in posters distributed free on the streets back then, and now preserved in museums. Paisley halter tops to flamboyantly flared bellbottoms brightened streetscapes. Revolutions in social norms tied to hair length, recreational drugs and free love fomented, and greater expression of fellowship, equality and tolerance flourished.

The historic convergence also stoked environmental concerns, goodwill that led to the first free health clinic, and outside-the-box thinking that led to Rolling Stone magazine, the Whole Earth Catalog and even Apple computers.

Here are some best bets for experiencing Summer of Love-related sensory pleasures. No mind-altering substances needed; just pack your grooviest clothes and be sure to wear some flowers in your hair.

n The Summer of Love Experience: Art, Fashion, and Rock & Roll, a new exhibition at the de Young Museum running to August 20, is a mind-blowing history lesson. Witness the Trips Festival of January 1966 through a multimedia extravaganza of liquid light and slide shows, film projections and electronic sounds. Marvel at rock posters by talents like Stanley Mouse that popularized new art forms. Get glimpses of legendary concerts, the Human Be-In and free-flowing fashions. The museums in Golden Gate Park. http://deyoung.famsf.org

n Hippie Modernism: The Struggle for Utopia, at the Berkeley Art Museum & Pacific Film Archive through May 21, explores the lasting impact of 1960s counterculture on global art, architecture and design. Experimental furniture, underground publications and films capture the higher-conscience zeitgeist. http://www.bampfa.berkeley.edu

n On the Road to the Summer of Love, running May 12 through September 10 at the California Historical Society, highlights counterculture events leading up to the Summer of Love. Approximately 150 photos and artifacts represent milestones such as the Beat movement, the experimental art scene, protests and two June 1967 events: the Monterey Pop Festival and the Mt. Tam Fantasy Fair which Adam Hirschfeld, the societys Director of Strategic Initiatives, called the worlds first major outdoor rock festival. Drawing 36,000 fans, this event boosted bands such as Jefferson Airplane, the Fifth Dimension and The Doors to global fame. It also provided a forum for former Harvard psychology professor Timothy Leary to tout hallucinogenic drugs, primarily LSD. http://www.californiahistoricalsociety.org

The Magic Bus, painted in peace and love motifs, doubles as a roving movie theater with its sound system and roll-down film screens. Starting in Union Square, the fun two-hour tour visits bustling Chinatown, the fabled Fillmore concert halls old home, Haight-Ashbury, North Beach and civil rights sites. http://www.magicbussf.com

The Beat Museum salutes the generation that gave rise to the Flower Power movement. The Beats, whose moniker refers to beatific, were a collective of writers, artists and thinkers who congregated here in the 1950s. Independently owned, this museum archives original manuscripts, letters and cultural objects. Its in North Beach, the Beats home base. http://www.kerouac.com

This is a city easily sight-seen on foot. Guided tours include Wild SF Walking Tours. Its new pay-whatever Free Love Free Tour leads you through the Haight-Ashbury epicenter of Free Love movement. An expert guitar-toting guide shares tales and songs of Janis Joplin, the Grateful Dead and other luminaries. The 1.75-hour adventure passes the Deads longtime psychedelic house, Joplins apartment, tie-dyed street art, Charles Mansons macabre mansion and Panhandle Park. Reservations required. http://wildsftours.com

San Francisco Museum of Modern Art reopened last year with a 10-story expansion inspired by the bay and fog. Pop art is well-represented. http://www.sfmoma.org

Dining choices include Sparrow Bar and Kitchen, located in Haight-Ashbury. Pair Haight Cuisine super-salads, sandwiches and quinoa cakes with local craft beers. http://www.sparrowbarandkitchen.com. Wild nettles? Broccoli hummus? Del Popolo is a favorite for small plates and wod-fired pizza made with exquisite local-grown ingredients. http://www.delpopolosf.com. Rambler serves flaky housemade biscuits and hearty mains morning to late night. Lovely regional wines, too. http://www.ramblersf.com

At Golden Gate Park, stroll a Pacific Coast haven that has drawn world travelers for decades. Keep your ears open for a locals tradition: the drum circle on Hippie Hill.

Roberta Soslow, an award-winning writer/photographer who lives in the South, can be reached at robsoslow@gmail.com.

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Summer of Love celebration brings peace, love and a whole lotta fun to San Francisco - Roanoke Times