This Copenhagen neighbourhood is leading the way for sustainable cities – The Independent

On 28 March 2020, Copenhagens newest metro station of Nordhavn quietly opened, linking the brand new district with the rest of the Danish capital in a swift 20-minute journey. It was the biggest milestone yet in a 40-year plan to transform the former industrial harbour into a carbon-neutral, holistically sustainable smart city for 40,000 residents that combines the latest thinking and technology with world-leading innovations.

Only the big moment was dampened by the small issue of a global pandemic. The metro opening was supposed to be a huge celebration with the crown prince and the minister for transport, says Rune Boserup, the project director at Cobe, the architects responsible for the Nordhavn project. But because it was Covid times, it was cancelled. Instead we celebrated by staying at home.

While much of Nordhavn remains under construction (its all due to be completed by 2050), the area around the metro station is the first to have been more or less finished. Today, strolling down the main high street, rhusgade, you find an industrial-chic ruggedness that gives it more soul than similar developments.

Walking and cycling tours of Nordhavn have popped up, showing off the buildings that create a skyline as distinctive as Londons or New Yorks

Life is already largely as Boserup and his colleagues intended. Residents frequent the supermarket one end, the cinema at the other, and its rows of choice shops and restaurants in between. To the right, theres the awe-inspiring sight of Portland Towers, the double-barrelled cement stores now reworked into offices overlooking Sandkaj Harbour, the swimming area.

Last summer, this boardwalk was the place for groups and sun and sea bathers to hang out, although today only one brave soul in his budgie smugglers tiptoes towards the icy November waters. During the warmer months, its not just swimming that takes place here Green Kayak, the organisation that rents out kayaks for free in return for collecting rubbish from the water, has a Nordhavn outpost.

Hotel Comwell is part of a chain renowned for its sustainable practices

(Hotel Comwell)

With its many waterways and even more canals in progress, Cobe founder Dan Stubbergaard says Nordhavn (pronounced something closer to nor-haun in Danish) will be the Scandinavian version of Venice, which you can imagine if you squint and swap the heritage Gothic architecture for futuristic-looking apartment blocks.

Already, walking and cycling tours of Nordhavn have popped up, showing off the buildings that create a skyline as distinctive as Londons or New Yorks. Theres the gleaming peacock-blue Copenhagen International School on the waterfront, and UN City across from Sandkaj Harbour. The former grain store of the Silo towers above its neighbouring buildings, and its rooftop restaurant offers remarkable views and haute cuisine.

The peaceful Green Loop is a modern-day, car-free expressway that makes walking safer and cycling a breeze

Visitors to the area will quickly notice the lack of cars, as walking and cycling are the main ways to get around. Linking the neighbourhood and the metro station, the peaceful Green Loop is a modern-day, car-free expressway that makes walking safer and cycling a breeze, even for this wobbly newbie.

Its a reminder that, with the rest of Copenhagen, Nordhavn is also set to go carbon neutral in the near future (the capitals original target has shifted from 2025 to a more realistic 2030). But sustainability has been at Nordhavns forefront from the get-go.

Every building here reaches high standards of energy efficiency, with solar panels a common sight, and a city-wide heating and cooling system that lowers its carbon footprint dramatically. The finer details have been thought through exhaustively, too one example is a community exchange area to leave or pick up recyclable items like airers, office chairs and plant pots.

The businesses within the district are expected to set examples in sustainability. Letz Sushi and Hotel Comwell are two of the first establishments to have moved in; both are part of chains renowned for their sustainable practices (peek inside the restaurant at Hotel Comwell to see the mushroom farm grown using old coffee grounds).

(Giuseppe Liverino/Visit Copenhagen)

At Hija de Sanchez Cantina, a year-old taqueria from former Noma chef Rosio Sanchez, they consciously limit their use of resources whether reusing table water to mop the floors, or composting the food waste they cant repurpose. Over a taco or two, head chef Laura Flores explains that Sanchezs four restaurants import corn from Mexico for the best-quality ingredients, but they only buy excess from different communities so producers can see to their own needs first.

That means we dont always know if were getting blue, red or yellow corn, and we have to test and change recipes because theyre not interchangeable, she says. But it works out in the long run.

At Hija de Sanchez, staff use table water to mop floors and compost food waste they cant repurpose

But this sustainable utopia isnt without its flaws. Even with a small amount of social housing on offer, its sky-high property prices around 3.5 times higher than the rest of Copenhagen have earnt it the nickname rich mans ghetto.

At the start, it was easy to say you want mixed social make-up, but then its a very attractive neighbourhood, so investors have been able to do good business here, says Stubbergaard. So its not socially sustainable yet, in my eyes. But during the six years since building this area, weve implemented the idea that 25 per cent of the houses we build on the other islands in Nordhavn have to be social housing.

With four-fifths of it yet to be built, theres ample opportunity to adjust the planners approach, which also involves making more green spaces. For now, Nordhavn is a cutting-edge location to explore all of Copenhagen, or spend a day along its waterways. Just dont forget the budgie smugglers.

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This Copenhagen neighbourhood is leading the way for sustainable cities - The Independent