Fay Maschler: What landed on my plate this week – Tatler

In early 2012 I heard about a new restaurant called Dabbous. It struck me as a definitely, almost defiantly, unpromising name but went along to review because it was new and also walking distance from where I live. I was back in there for lunch the following day. Young Ollie Dabbous explains the name struck me as not only an immensely talented and intelligent chef but one who had in his grasp the spirit of what Parisian chefs at the time were calling bistronomie high-octane cooking, low-key surroundings, amiable, unstarchy service. I gave Dabbous five stars, my top rating, awarded I explained when a restaurant comes along that changes the game. Ollie now cooks at Hide in Piccadilly in collaboration with Russian-owned Hedonism Wines. I am meeting my son Ben, ownerof The Compasses Inn near Tisbury in Wiltshire, for a meal at Hide. I want him to experience Ollies cooking. Mum, wed better stick to the set lunch, (38 for two courses excluding sides) are Bens first words. This we do but we are denied none of the prettiness verging on beauty of Ollies new direction nor the enthusiastic embrace of the potential in plant life. My first course choice of baked pumpkin with orange blossom, toasted macadamia and a pandan leaf broth is a soup mined with delicious discoveries. There is now a handsome book Essential by Ollie Dabbous published last month.

hide.co.uk

Go here to see the original:

Fay Maschler: What landed on my plate this week - Tatler