At Watertowns Buttermilk & Bourbon, the good times roll in spite of it all – The Boston Globe

The backstory The original Buttermilk opened four years ago, which feels like ancient history now a carefree time before COVID, when patrons would guzzle glow-in-the-dark cocktails from a Slushie machine in a black-lit room called the Voodoo Lounge. Life is a bit more somber these days, but the affable, telegenic Santos who has appeared on Bar Rescue and Hells Kitchen is betting on Watertown as the next big thing.

Its an up-and-coming neighborhood. [I] love what Arsenal Yards will ultimately be and wanted to be able to build something from the ground up, he says.

What to eat Pace yourself. Santos is a master of culinary hedonism, and he does absolutely nothing small. Come hungry. I was assisted by a group of eager taste-testers for this mission, and my fridge was stacked with leftovers for a week until I almost went door-to-door offering fried chicken to my neighbors.

Enormous honey-glazed biscuits shiny like a fat babys cheeks were the hands-down favorite.

I dont even like biscuits. Typically, theyre dry and need to be slathered with butter or jam. These were perfection. Ill add them to the foods Ive eaten and continue to dream about list, gushed one dazzled diner. If you do want to slather em with something, theres cinnamon butter or pimento cheese ($14), but theyre not necessary. BBQ shrimp ($15) are swimming in an ocean of jalapeno grits, good enough to eat alone, by the spoonful comforting, creamy, tangy. Vidalia onion dip ($8) is standard-issue except for the chips. Santos never does anything halfway, and this is no exception: Theyre served with kettle chips dusted with horseradish-cheddar seasoning, which I kept snacking on for days afterward.

Friskier diners might try the alligator fries, a poutine-like Tetris of French fries with pimento queso and craggy chunks of fried gator (yeah, it tastes like chicken). If you still have room after all this, order buttermilk fried chicken as wings ($12), thighs ($14), or a bone-in half portion ($21). My group enjoyed the chicken but was more effusive about the array of sauces that accompany it, especially the syrupy barbecue sauce (one person was seen swilling it straight from the container). Last but not least: Dont forget about the aged gouda mac n cheese. You wont taste much gouda, but that doesnt matter. Its sprinkled with red hot Cheeto crust, the type you licked off your fingers in elementary school. Maybe not a Southern classic, but a welcome diversion when youve had one too many Hurricanes.

What to drink Those rum-fueled Hurricanes, of course, plus Bloody Marys, a vast selection of bourbon (available by the flight), and soon, canned cocktails to go.

The takeaway An indulgent way to celebrate something, anything like getting a vaccine, sending your kids back to school, or just making it through yet another day.

Buttermilk & Bourbon, 100 Arsenal Yards Blvd., Watertown, 857-760-7128, http://www.buttermilkbourbon.com

Kara Baskin can be reached at kara.baskin@globe.com. Follow her on Twitter @kcbaskin.

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At Watertowns Buttermilk & Bourbon, the good times roll in spite of it all - The Boston Globe