One Market’s barbecue pop-up reflects the evolution of S.F.’s … – San Francisco Chronicle

Photo: Michael Macor, The Chronicle

One Market

One Market

Chef Mark Dommen keeps the plates moving out of the kitchen for the lunch crowd at One Market. 2016.

Chef Mark Dommen keeps the plates moving out of the kitchen for the lunch crowd at One Market. 2016.

One Markets barbecue pop-up reflects the evolution of S.F.s downtown lunch scene

Theres a midday crowd filtering in and of out of One Market restaurant these days, but unlike the Financial Districts usual power lunch crowd, these diners are largely uninterested in a multi-course lunch over the restaurants $22 flounder entrees and $23 shrimp Louis salads. Instead, theyre breezing through the dining room to reach the restaurants barbecue pop-up in the atrium and order a pulled chicken sandwich ($11) or a to-go plate of ribs (8.50).

Back Porch BBQ is a reaction to downtown San Franciscos changing demographics, says One Markets chef Mark Dommen. Younger, more affluent diners are dictating the citys food culture and in Dommens eyes, they want comfort food consumable on the go a shift seen in the continued rise of food trucks and quick-service places in the last few years.

Thats not say there is no demand for the classic One Market experience. Most of the tables were full during a recent midweek visit, yet at the same time, a steady stream of young folks made their way to the summer-only pop-up.

Its a new chapter for Dommen, who said the world of barbecue is one hes been excited about exploring. The restaurant has a brand new smoker and since it became operational a few months back, Dommen and his team have been learning its ins and outs.

Dommen also admitted that while the idea is to have the pop-up run close by the end of summer, theres a chance it could last longer. Depending on the publics reaction, he said he could see it surfacing in off summer months when the weather is colder and people might be craving something smokey.

Everything on the Back Porch BBQ menu is a la carte. Customers either eat outside at One Market or take it to-go. (The largest dish on the Back Porch menu is the dozen St. Louis-style spare ribs for $30.) Doubling down on the quick service aspect, Dommen and his team have made it to where the cue can be ordered online and picked up at the atriums back door. Walk-up orders are welcome too.

Justin Phillips is a San Francisco Chronicle staff writer. Email: jphillips@sfchronicle.com. Twitter: @JustMrPhillips

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One Market's barbecue pop-up reflects the evolution of S.F.'s ... - San Francisco Chronicle