From ‘stanapatta’ to a statement garment: Tracing the evolution of blouses in India – The Indian Express

Sari is one of the most common and loved pieces of clothing that most women across the country regularly wear. But, a sari, in todays time, seems incomplete without an accompanying blouse. The case, however, wasnt the same before the arrival of colonisers in the country prior to whom the larger part of our country had women either leaving their upper body uncovered or slightly covered by breast bands, fashion designer Varun Chakkilam shared. The matter of covering or keeping body exposed also rested on the social position of women and it was never a uniform emergence of styles across India, he said.

The advent and rule of British colonisers in the country brought about a significant change in the way men and women dress up as they introduced new clothing forms, previously unknown to them. In fact, the words petticoat and blouse, which we use so often to describe a traditional Indian ensemble, are ideas which were foreign to the Indians at the time and were introduced by them in our country. They were considered sophisticated additions to the culture of our country as they believed a womans womanhood should be covered as nudity was looked down upon as something backward and immoral by the westernised society, the designer added.

Agreeing, Dr Toolika Gupta, founding member and secretary of the Textiles and Clothing Research Centre, New Delhi, said that fusing blouse and petticoat in the countrys sari culture is altogether a foreign concept.

So, what did women wear before blouses came into the picture? Descriptions found in 6th-century BC Sanskrit and Pali texts show the earliest precursor to the present-day sari and blouse pairing was a three-piece ensemble: antriya, the lower garment; the uttariya, a veil worn over the shoulder or the head, and the stanapatta, a chest-band. Wearing even the stanapatta wasnt considered standard practice and many women didnt opt for it, depending on their choice, regional custom, class or caste. But of course, as time passed by and situations evolved with several foreigners coming into our land, gradually, a way of dressing also crept into our culture, Dr Gupta added.

A report by BBC notes that Jnanadanandini Debi, sister-in-law of poet Rabindranath Tagore, is credited for popularising blouses, jackets, chemises and modern-style saris in India. It added that Debi did the same after she was denied entry to clubs under colonial rule for wearing the sari over her bare breasts.

As such, the blouse once non-existent with saris became an important accompaniment to cover a womans modesty. Just like every fashion garment, it saw a series of changes over the decades, resulting in an array of patterns, designs, and silhouettes. Then onwards, till date, we have seen a humongous variety of this fitted piece of clothing for women in varied styles with public figures from the high caste of the Indian society to politicians, actors and performers setting up trends. It has evolved from the traditional Indian blouse to a statement piece in itself today, Chakkilam mentioned.

Over the years, adapting to the ever-growing fashion trends in the country, this basic piece of clothing soon became important and relevant. With everything evolving, be it our lifestyles, food habits and garments, why should the blouse be left behind? While the basic purpose is to cover the body, we are also going global in terms of silhouettes and designs, fashion designer Anju Modi noted.

Agreeing, Nishit Gupta, Director, Kalki Fashion, said blouses have now become the talk of the town. In the early era, blouses were considered a piece of clothing to cover the body while wearing a sari. In recent times, people believe in experimenting, he told indianexpress.com.

Calling it a style statement, Modi added, It is a very important garment for any ensemble. We may call it a crop top or a jacket or a corset or a bustier they are all blouses and the idea is the same.

How have they evolved?

According to Chakkilam, a standard blouse in todays time is a defined mix of global style elements across all cultures. The sari blouse has evolved into an open interpretation and I think thats lovely women arent afraid to pair non-traditional styles like dress shirts or even t-shirts as blouses. Women are also more open to experimentation and trying blouses with deeper cuts and neck styles, such as corset and halter styles, said designer Sumeer Kaur, founder, Lashkaraa, adding that statement blouses can and are now mixed and matched with different styles for a completely new look.

For brides, especially, blouses are particularly significant, Gupta said. Its the most personally curated and bespoke garment that a bride gives utmost prominence to, for her wedding. Each bride gets her blouse designed bearing in mind her body shape, her facial features, the colour of the sari and sometimes even the theme of the wedding, he told indianexpress.com.

According to Gupta, there are around 150 different types of patterns and most of them are made with different necklines and backs!

The influence of popular culture

Film, television, magazine and other modes of popular culture continue to seep into our daily lives, influencing our choices and ways of living. The evolution of the blouse, too, saw a major imprint of contemporary pop culture. TV, media, movies, shows, and fashion shows have been changing the trends throughout. Of course, they create an impact on peoples dressing sense. Young generations tend to copy their favourite stars on how they dress up, Gupta said.

Agreeing, Chakkilam said Bollywood and Indian brides have brought blouses to the forefront, with experiments in sensuousness, shape, silhouette and style. Naming a few such iconic popular creations, the ace designer said, Some iconic creations that are re-remembered to date are The Kamasutra choli by designer Rohit Bal, fluted and pleated blouses by industry veteran and pioneer Tarun Tahiliani, the iconic Bipasha Blouse by designer Sabyasachi were the greatest trends followed till date coming in cycles of fashion. Bikini-style blouses by Manish Malhotra, in the recent 2000s, had been popularised by Priyanka Chopras hit number Desi Girlwhich has multiple variations till date according to comfort, size and occasion.

Believing that popular culture has changed the way women wear blouses, Kaur added, We are living in the era of social media and also find so many different ways to style and wear a sari by our favourite influencers, as well. So, popular culture is indeed quintessential in the way sari blouses have evolved.

The different blouse designs

Varying in sleeves, necklines, silhouettes and work, among others there is now an array of blouse designs to choose from. Blouses are a symbol of fashion and status and are being made according to ones choices. Most of the varieties are based on their necklines, eg: halter neck, boat neck, high neck, collar neck, knotted blouse, illusion/sheer neck blouse and many more, Gupta said.

He added that people now also add motifs of gods and goddesses, elephants, peacocks, and other random things to their blouses. Some of them are intricately sewn on the back of the blouse. Some exclusive blouses are handmade with the finest skills and intricate details and hence each of these blouses is a statement piece, he said.

According to Chakkilam, fitted and uncomfortable blouses are now replaced with more comfortable and wearable designs. Designers have been experimenting with high necks, zippers and looser fits. Today, women wear a variety of non-traditional blouses, including shirts and sweaters, he said.

But what has remained a classic and all-time favourite is the backless blouse, according to Modi. The all-time favourite blouse design among people is the backless kind. This is what Ive observed ever since I started working in the traditional space. They are covering and revealing, at the same time. Backless blouses have been a part of our history for thousands of years when the Gujarati women would wear cholis held together at the back with just a string, she told indianexpress.com.

Deepika Padukones sensual yet elegant backless blouses in Ramleela, designed by Modi, took fans by storm due to their love for backless blouses. People still want the same. They look hot and sexy, but not indecent, the designer said.

But, what has been gaining much attention recently from celebrities and the general public alike are the corset blouses. The nineties saw corset-style bustier blouses engineered to fit. This blouse is now being reimagined with halter or high necks, in crop top and bodycon silhouettes, or full-sleeved, strappy or sleeveless styles. Embellishments include larger-than-life beads, sequins and motifs, and even chains and leather. A blouse today is in a transitioning phase of being genderless as it can be worn by people of all gender types according to the individualistic expression of self, he said.

From a side-kick to a hero

Earlier, what used to be just a supporting character to saris, is slowly stealing away its limelight, becoming the focal point of ones ensemble, according to designers. The blouse is now seen as the highlight of a design when earlier the sari would be the statement and designers would focus on highlighting the sari with different embroideries and embellishments. Now, you can pair a plain georgette sari with a statement blouse and it literally completes the look the blouse is no longer insignificant compared to the sari and it is truly what completes the entire ensemble, Kaur said.

Truly, a blouse gives the entire ensemble a sense of completion and seamlessness to the look the colours, silhouette, choice of materials and the extent to which it complements the sari.

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From 'stanapatta' to a statement garment: Tracing the evolution of blouses in India - The Indian Express