Fay Maschler on The Betterment: Atmosphere of a nightclub crossed with a board room, but it may pick up – Evening Standard

Every day,in every way, Im getting better and better. French psychologist and pharmacist mile Cou proposed this bit of optimistic autosuggestion to his patients in 19th-century France. He suggested they repeat it to themselves at least 20 times a day, especially first and last thing. The notion of betterment took root and flourished particularly, as you might imagine, in the US, where unfortunately it became tangled up with eugenics.

Its a butterfingered choice for a restaurant name but perhaps less so when you hear that the chef behind the food offering at the re-branded Biltmore Mayfair hotel is Jason Atherton, who is on to his 18th, or it could be 19th, venture since 2005 when the stint with Gordon Ramsay at Maze on the opposite side of Grosvenor Square highlighted his talents.

Moving with the times is not necessarily comparable with betterment certainly not at the moment but Atherton and his chef Paul Walsh, who was previously at Athertons City Social, have taken careful note, it would seem, of what is currently thriving in restaurants outside hotels. Despite a glitzy makeover of the dining area complete with plant walls this property is in the Hilton LXR collection the relatively short menu is presented on A4-size grey card and its sub-heads include Fish and Meat Roasted Over Embers and more or less equal airtime given for vegetables and salads.

Staff are expensively suited and booted, some of the men with high-maintenance facial hair spookily resembling JA himself. In the evening receptionists model black off-the-shoulder dresses. Thumping music, louder and more thudding at dinner, contributes to a nightclub crossed with boardroom atmosphere.

Unbidden, a whole rotund, bonny loaf of sourdough accompanied by salted butter arrives. Of the first courses tried over two meals, perhaps the best dish is steak tartare oddly presented in a cut-glass bowl with beef dripping croutons. It is the Parmesan-dusted croutons that are the betterment here, a demonstration of the possible upward social mobility of cheesy chips. To its 16 cost, Rossini Baerii caviar can be added for a further 28. We resist.

Curry velout, with smoked chalk stream trout on a potato cake, is a captivating notion and the flavours do chime but the textures of the fish and its potato bed are unappealingly flabby. A layer of tart apple pure on top is the best part of pork cheek terrine, which falls apart into nuggets of meat and hard cones of carrot rather than conveying the wholesome hand knitting suggested by terrine.

The main course of roast chicken, trompettes, Albufera sauce at 45 for two to share is irresistible despite hindering more thorough menu coverage. Dark mushrooms stuffed under the skin of the breast make the whole bird resemble guinea fowl, which only adds to the disappointment of dense texture and a lack of innate flavour. Practically a bush of fresh rosemary stuffed into the cavity at the time of sending out serves no purpose. But Albufera sauce, a creamy velout, tinted ivory with demi-glace, pretty much saves the day and, to some extent, the chicken.

Jason Atherton: I can't stand 'concepts' we just serve good food

Horseradish velout promised with ox-cheek tortellini presents as detumescent white foam on green pasta shells that are way too resilient, as if they know theyll be hammered by the thin salty jus below. Best of everything tried including hazelnut praline choux, coffee ganache and lemon sorbet is a side dish of onion flower with chive emulsion.The onion, opened out through soaking like a blooming dahlia, is roasted to the edge of caramelisation to deliver crunchy edginess as well as a plump sweet core.

A chum of mine who has a meal here later says the restaurant should be called Onion by Jason. But Jason is into betterment and so am I. Every day, in every way, Im getting better and better. Im saying it. Im trying. Speaking of which, sommelier Stefan Kobald proves a skilled guide through the large, leather-bound wine list.

Bao Borough

Excellent steamed buns with added late-night noodles, whiskey cocktails and karaoke.

13 Stoney Street, SE1, baolondon.com

Bright

The original gifted team from P Franco now with a big kitchen.

1 Westgate Street, E8,brightrestaurant.co.uk

The Sea The Sea

Chef Leandro Carreira from Londrino (RIP) gleams brightly here.

174 Pavilion Road, SW1, theseathesea.net

Neither restaurants or dishes get more iconic than this. Fergus Hendersons best-known creation has been much emulated over the years, but never bettered.

Theres a high chance that theres more butter in this than polenta, along with plenty of mushrooms, truffle and parmesan. This is the highlight dish on a menu of highlights.

When the original Barrafina launched in Soho in 2007 modelled on Barcelona tapas bar Cal Pep it helped introduce the city to both Spanish food and counter dining. Croquetas are among the most popular items on the menu at all three Barrafina restaurants, with different signature serves at each. They might just be the best in town.

Sabor, the Spanish powerhouse from former Barrafina chef Nieves Barragn Mohacho, has lots to offer across its tapas bar, restaurant and upstairs asador. This simple plate of salty, oil-rich anchovies laid on bright white sheets of shaved lardo is as simple as it comes, but all the better for it. Best eaten counterside with a sherry in hand and southern Spain in mind.

Prepare to wait in line for this Borough Market classic: a ciabatta roll stuffed to bursting with smoky chorizo fresh from the grill, roasted red peppers and rocket. Its a good to start the day as it is to soak up a few pints later on.

These soft corn tortillas filled with cured pork thats been cooked doner kebab-style are the salty, saliva-inducing highlight at this Borough Market taco joint.

This canny creation from Heston Blumenthal takes inspiration from c1500. It combines mandarin, chicken liver and foie gras in a pt, and resembles a mandarin.

For pizza traditionalists, Santa Maria do it like in old Napoli. The San Daniele doesnt have any tomato sauce, but is topped instead with cherry tomatoes, rocket, parmesan shavings and generous amounts of excellent quality San Daniele Parma ham. See more of the best pizzas in London.

People have been known to fall out arguing which of Brick Lanes two neighbouring all-night bagel shops is best, but we have no definitive answer. Both offer superbly moist salt beef and sweet, chewy bagel perfection. Have one of each.

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Leave your airs and graces at the door at Lahore, where its all about you and the amazing things they do with that grill. Lamb chops is the star dish at the worthy cult favourite.

Once you get over the fact that the pizzas are a whopping 20 inches, Homeslices exciting toppings get their own gawping rights. This middle eastern creation is fresh, crunchy and served on their wonderful garlic base. Purists need not apply.

Theres plenty of cheeseburgers in London, but theres also the Ari Gold: a 35 day aged Aberdeen Angus patty dripping with gooey American cheese and smokey P&B mayo, topped with salad and home-pickled red onion rings.

The British beauty that is the scotch egg has to be the ultimate pub snack. And this well seasoned, gamey, reliably runny-yolked version served at Londons only Michelin-starred gastropub is the leader of its kind.

When it comes to steak, Hawksmoor is the daddy. It doesnt matter what cut you go for or which accompaniments you choose, its almost impossible to go wrong. Oh, but do get some bone marrow.

A bacon sarnie, Indian style. A London breakfast classic, especially well-received when a hangover lurks.

The fat strips of tender, slow-cooked beef are a highlight among many high points at the smoke-filled Shoreditch base of David Carters Smokestak. They come either straight-up, with a punchy homemade ketchup, or crammed into a bun.

Seafood supremos Wright Brothers are all about the oysters. Think this snack is only for the fanciest of folks? Head there between 3pm and 6pm, Monday to Friday to pick them up for just 1 a go.

Yes, vegan food can be high end. Jason Atherton proves this with gusto at his flagship Mayfair restaurant, where this autumnal dish is the star of his Michelin-starred all-vegan tasting menu.

Vegan food can, however, get down and dirty with the best of them. This punchy, spicy jackfruit taco from Club Mexicana gives pulled pork a serious run for its money.

Vegetable dishes dont come much more thrilling than this smoky, richly-spiced whole cauliflower charred on the grill and adorned with tahini, pomegranate seeds and pine nuts. A match for any meat dish.

Spicy, rich and intense, the lamb offal flatbread created by Lee Tiernan at haute kebab spot Black Axe Mangal in Islington is as fabulously full-on as the heavy metal-playing restaurant itself.

You can take your pick from Calum Franklins pies at Holborn Dining Room, because they are all outstanding. The chef is pastry wizard, who works his magic across a range that includes an anything but humble pork pie, and seasonal specials such as curried mutton pie with mango chutney.

These picture-perfect deep-fried courgette flowers stuffed with goats cheese and drizzled in honey are full of Mediterranean splendour.

When pub food comes from the team behind The Palomar and The Barbary, then you know youre going to order more than a bag of nuts. This roll is robustly meaty, with fabulously flakey pastry served with a dollop of Colmans, naturally.

Tarshish recently won a particularly well-coveted gong. The reigning champion of the British Kebab Awards fine dining accolade serves up marinated lamb shish, available with a side of mac and cheese.

Delicious fatty juices add unctuous backbone to a richly spiced mutton keema which can barely be contained within a toasted brioche bun in this clever take on British-meets-Indian-meets-wherever from Ravinder Bhogal.

Theres a translucent glisten to these indulgent tacos at Neil Rankins Temper, where a zero-waste policy means that its tortillas are made with leftover beef fat from the grill - a move which isnt just good for the environment, but for flavour too.

The pressed duck at this Clerkenwell institution isnt for the faint-hearted. The multi-course canard fest involves the duck first being brought to the table for inspection complete with its head, while the bones are later crushed to produce an epic-tasting jus. Breast meat, chopped liver and grilled legs all feature in what is a delicious if deathly dish.

This grand Piccadilly Brasserie from Chris Corbin and Jeremy King not only does the best breakfast in town, it pretty much invented the notion of breakfasting out. The English features a choice of fried, poached or scrambled eggs with bacon, sausage, baked beans, tomato, black pudding and mushroom. Its the quality of ingredients - plus the atmosphere - which makes it really special.

A bright, North African breakfast staple mastered and popularised by Yotam Ottolenghi.

Few dishes are as splendidly simple as this one from the London Bridge pasta gurus. It is simply spaghetti with parmesan and black pepper. But oh boy, is it good. Find more of the best Italian restaurants in London.

As it melts, the dripping is collected in the candle holders base ready to dip your bread in. Its been on the menu since the restaurant opened in 2013 and is still one of Londons cleverest dishes.

A warm, chewy waffle topped with crisp-skinned confit duck and a runny egg, drizzled in maple syrup. Convinced yet? Naturally there are some pretty impressive views, too...

This Shepherds Pie has been a favourite at The Ivy since virtually the beginning, and thanks to the continued roll-out of Ivy brasseries just about everywhere across town, its now more accessible than ever.

This fiery, aromatic dish became a favourite at Som Saas early residencies and pop-ups, and is now a highlight of the menu at its Spitalfields restaurant.

For steamed buns, you cant beat Bao. Their classic sees a pillowy-soft bun filled with slow-braised pork belly, coarse peanut powder and shredded coriander. Worth queuing for.

On the addiction scale, these crispy strands of fried courgette are class A. They come overflowing in a large bowl at Sartoria as well as Francesco Mazzeis other two restaurants Radici in Islington and Fiume in Battersea. When at any, they should be ordered on the side of absolutely anything.

This fried chicken dusted with pine salt is a well-deserved classic, and not just because of its interesting, pine-flanked presentation.

This well-known burger is the signature serve across Yianni Papoutsis burger empire. Its dirty and drippy, featuring two beef patties fried in mustard and slathered in melted American-style cheese adorned with pickles and minced raw onions. The creamy, mustardy secret-recipe Dead Hippie Sauce seals the deal.

This Sri Lankan sensation which made its name in Soho and has since expanded to Marylebone isnt just named after the hopper, it does them very well indeed. Pair an egg hopper with the restaurants intricately spiced curries.

London has gone loco for ceviche in recent years, but what about its sashimi-like cousin. Coya serves up silky slithers of kingfish come swimming in dashi, chives and an elegant dollop of truffle.

Now settled in Soho after outgrowing the Brixton shipping container they started out in, Kricket offers more dishes than ever to please spice fans. This light and bright exemplary version of bhel puri is still top of the pile.

Chops, glorious chops. Thats what Blacklock does and it does them very well indeed. Dont choose between them, opt for the All In option and enjoy a mixed grill of varying beef, lamb and pork chops.

This is as close to a pudding that a vegetable gets. Aubergines lathered in miso sauce and topped with sweet, crunchy pecans. Sweet and savoury, youll want to order it again for dessert.

A legend of the sandwich scene, Crouch Hills lunchtime lot are in luck with Maxs Ham Egg and Chips. Slow cooked ham hock is topped with oozing fried egg, matchstick fries, piccalilli and malt vinegar mayonnaise. Our own Fay Maschler cant resist this place.

Matt Writtle

For somewhere so high up, Hutong is pretty warm. Looking down from the 33rd floor of the Shard, this dish of fried soft shell crab is left warm in a bowlful of dried Sichuan chillies, soaking up their smokey spice.

When New York master baker Dominique Ansel opened his first European site in Victoria, this hybrid Franken Pastry that merges a croissant and a doughnut led to queues of several hours. Bite into its fluffy, buttery, flaky goodness and youll instantly understand the appeal.

Anna Hansens Asian-influenced signature dish, served at The Modern Pantry restaurant in Clerkenwell.

Flaky buttery pastry encasing tender venison, a highlight of the dim sum at Alan Yaus Soho restaurant.

These plump green olives stuffed with chilli and deep fried might just be Londons most noshable nibble. They are juicy, spicy, slightly salty and endlessly addictive. Wash them down with some of Mele e Peres homemade vermouth.

The beef at this Marylebone Basque restaurant is something special. It comes from cows which live until they are at least eight, often 10 and sometimes 14. These cows are fatter, which leads to more marbling in the meat and a lot more flavour.

Playful takes on British classics are a signature of this restaurant set in Mayfairs The Stafford hotel. Top of the pile is this retro Kiev of tender chicken that oozes with ultra-garlicky, truffle-laced butter. The accompanying mash is dreamily creamy, too.

More a ham cave than a bar, Maltby Streets Bar Tozino is so full of hanging hams that youll likely smell the ageing meat even before walking through the door. Settle in and gorge your way through slice after slice of the varying options, washing it all down with sherry ideally.

A deep, smoky mince curry served with bread rolls an example of less is more at this Mayfair Michelin-starred Indian.

Iconic in its defiant simplicity, this signature dish is ultimate comfort food. Comfort food made with A-listers in mind, naturally.