Want to Buy a Luxury Watch? Read These 7 Pro Tips First – The Wall Street Journal

PERHAPS YOUVE hit a milestonea new job, an anniversary, a first pregnancy. Perhaps youve stumbled upon a watch enthusiasts Instagram feed and are intrigued. Perhaps youve simply looked down at your naked wrist and thought, Somethings missing. Whatever the reason, youve resolved to buy a watch. A nice one. Not an Apple Watch or a Swatchnot that theres anything wrong with thembut something that requires a sizable budget and a commitment. But where to begin?

To make a bad watch joke, its more complicated than you might think.

There are so many facets to buying a watch, said Paul Boutros, head of Americas for watches at Phillips auction house. Whether you choose vintage or modern, it could seem like you have to figure out how to climb Mount Everest when youre starting.

Mr. Boutros recommends first deciding on a brand, then a modelboth choices that require serious research. Reliability is paramount, but understanding what each timepiece telegraphs is also key. If you project an implausible mix of outdoorsiness and sophisticationor wish you dida luxe dive or sports watch might be for you. If youre a glamorous type whos back on the gala circuit, a watch dripping in diamonds could prove most functional. If your personal brand is timeless chic, the Cartier Tank collection is up your alley. Omegas Speedmaster, meanwhile, kind of marks you as someone who likes watches, said Adam Craniotes, co-founder of RedBar, a watch-enthusiast platform, even if it doesnt carry the hype of a Rolex Daytona or Submariner. The Speedmaster was the watch worn on mans first trip to the moon, immortalized in Ron Howards 1995 film Apollo 13, and is now favored by President Biden. Ultimately, your watch will be a matter of individual preference, and the website Hodinkee, a popular watch-lovers platform, is a good place to glean essential information during your search.

But even if you select a timepiece from the tippy-top tier of heritage Swiss watch houseslike Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Omega, Vacheron Constantinyou cant always proceed without understanding the workings of the insular horologic world. For example, one cannot simply waltz into any authorized dealer (AD) and walk out with the most popular models, which include the Rolex Submariner and Daytona, the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. A combination of hype economy and Swiss supply machinations has made these stainless-steel sports watches the ultimate luxury flex, nearly impossible to get firsthand. Wait lists are epic and are reserved for those who have relationships with the house or the AD. If you dont have a history of purchasing with them, youre just putting your name down. Theyre not putting you on the list, said Mr. Craniotes. The demand for these enviable timepieces has spiked on the secondary (resale) market.

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Want to Buy a Luxury Watch? Read These 7 Pro Tips First - The Wall Street Journal