Daily Archives: May 23, 2022

Ridiculously blue water, unspoiled reefs and oodles of privacy - its hard to beat these dreamy Fijian beaches.

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Musket Cove is on the second-largest of Fiji's Mamanuca Islands.

Say Bula to this popular spot on the resort island of Malolo Lailai. If this isnt the beach of your dreams then I dont know what is. Think icing sugar sand, ridiculously blue water and palm trees to laze under. Jump on a boat and head out to the sandbars and reefs where you can dive with Nemo and his mates.

READ MORE:* Vomo Fiji: Inside the private island waiting for Kiwis* These are the Pacific Islands that Kiwis can travel to this winter* Turtle Island, Fiji: Why this tropical island paradise is one of the world's most recognised

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Turtle Island has room for 14 couples only.

Are there turtles on the private Turtle Island? Yes, including green, hawksbill and leatherback sea turtles. Also on Turtle Island is the stunning Honeymoon Beach which, as the name suggests, is a favourite with the newly betrothed. Its easy to see why - a postcard-perfect arc of white sand, rocky headlands and oodles of privacy because theres only accommodation for 14 couples.

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Matagi Island is only accessible by boat.

A friend calls this spot on private Matagi Island her ultimate bucket list beach - the kind of pristine sand, unspoiled reefs and vistas usually reserved for screen savers. No surprise that Horseshoe Bay has been named one of the 1000 places to see before you die. Its a bit of schelp to get here but its more than worth it.

Staying safe: New Zealand is currently under Covid-19 restrictions. Follow the instructions at covid19.govt.nz.

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Three of the best beaches in Fiji - Stuff

Coral spawning was observed in Kholo Bay, Papa Bay, Heeia Bay and at Kahaluu Bay at various times this week, state officials confirmed Friday.

Waialea Bay Marine Life Conservation District, also known as Beach 69, was closed May 17-19 to allow for spawning. On Tuesday, May 17, conditions were near perfect for the reproduction of coral, said Aquatic biologist Chris Teague, with the DLNR Division of Aquatic Resources. He added that the reef system at Waialea Bay MLCD looks healthy, with large numbers of fish, including herbivores like uhu and manini.

There were two spawning periods this year on coral colonies across the islands. One was in April and the other occurred on Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday, Teague said. We didnt see any spawning on Tuesday morning, but they certainly could have spawned earlier in April.

Coral reproduction is tied to both the lunar and tidal cycles.

If you track the timing of the moon phase, as well as the outgoing tides, you get a good idea of when coral tend to spawn, Teague stated.

According to DLNR, MLCD has the highest level of state protection available, which helps keep coral colonies vital. Nearshore, in shallow water, the MLCD has small colonies of coral.

Offshore we had a much healthier coral reef prior to a severe coral bleaching event in 2015, Teague explained.

Teague said its interesting to observe spawning in person in real-time.

You can see the reproductive process of the corals as it happens, and you know the eggs and sperm will go out through the water column and hopefully improve the health of the reef, he said.

During these spawning events, DAR asked the public to stay out of the water.

Our main concern is all of the things we put on our skin and in our hair. Skincare products like sunscreen, moisturizers, shampoo, and conditioners. All of these chemicals can have detrimental effects on coral eggs and sperm, and they hang out in the top surface of the water, which is where people tend to swim, said Megan Lamson, a DAR fish and habitat monitoring technician.

Even during non-spawning periods, ocean-goers are urged, and in some cases will be required by law, to only use non-chemical sunscreens. Statewide, theres a ban on the sale of sunscreens containing a pair of chemicals, widely believed to be contributing to coral loss and death. Maui has a law going into effect this Fall, which bans all chemical-based sunscreens, and Hawaii Island leaders are now considering a similar measure. Last November, through a private-public partnership, a reef-safe sunscreen dispenser was installed at the entrance of Waialea Bay MLCD.

Teague reports that people who have been asked to stay out of the water on spawning mornings have almost always voluntarily done so.

Sharing information about the life-cycle of corals, the importance of our reefs as the very foundations of the ocean, is all it takes to get people thinking about changing some of their habits.

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Coral Spawning Observed in Various Bays on Hawai'i Island | Big Island Now - Big Island Now

Close to the danish border theres a tiny German island that most people havent heard of but is actually home to a number of celebrities second homes and acts as a place where the rich and famous go to relax. Sylt is paradise for those who can afford to go there, expect quaint villages, delicious seafood, scenic views and pretty cottages.

The island is made up of a large group of islands called the North Frisian Islands. To the left of the island is the Wadden Sea part of the UNESCO World Heritage site. Sadly the island is shrinking in size as the wind and sea take the away.

Sylts shape is particularly unique as its extremely long and thin with a stunning beach on the north and western side which spread out for 40km with rolling dunes behind them. The island itself could easily be mistaken for the English countryside with meadows, cows roaming freeling and thatched roof cottages.

READ MORE: The island 90 minutes from London previously slated as an 'isolated hellhole' now named one of Britain's best places to visit

Its advised that the best way to explore the island is by bike, with the island having an extensive network of cycle paths.

Designer shops line the streets and the island is actually the most expensive place to buy a house in Germany. Its no surprise that celebrities like Kevin Costner and Boris Becker both own holiday homes on the island, although its unclear whether Boris still owns his home after he was imprisoned for two and a half years for hiding 2.5m worth of assets.

Weather-wise it can vary, with average temperatures of around 20C in July. So, if you're not a fan of a beach holiday, this could be just the ticket for you.

Unlike the rest of Germany, Sylt's latitude is high enough to observe the phenomenon of the white nights, in which the sun sets but it does not get completely dark even at midnight, and this happens from June 12 to July 1.

Sylt does have an airport but its for private planes so its highly likely that youll be taking the train up from the old port city of Hamburg. Its about a three-hour journey from there.

Do you have a story you think we should be covering? If so, email gabriella.clare@reachplc.com.

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Heathrow and Gatwick: The little unknown island 3 hours from London where Kevin Costner has a home - My London

Its called the Bay State. It has roughly 1,400 miles of coastline and a world-famous tourist magnet called the Cape and Islands.

Massachusetts should be a beach lovers paradise, but access to the states shores is deeply uneven. Entry to most beaches is dependent on personal wealth, your home zip code and a shrinking allotment of visitor parking spaces clustered far from the water and a system of parking restrictions aimed at out-of-towners.

Just 12% of the states beaches are open to all members of the public, according to a coastal land inventory done by the state more than 30 years ago the last estimate the state ever attempted, when the state had about 1 million fewer residents. That small percentage of public beaches often draw crowds so big on sunny days that parking lots fill to capacity, turning away carloads of disappointed travelers and people trying to seek ocean relief from hot temperatures as climate change has steadily increased the number of summer days that reach high temperatures over 90 degrees.

Beach access is also perhaps unsurprisingly an issue of racial inequity. The states urban beaches are free and easily accessible, but some of the beaches located in more racially and ethnically diverse communities such as Boston, Lynn and Quincy are also more prone to bacterial contamination that poses a health risk, sometimes forcing beach closures.

Now, three decades after state leaders sounded an alarm about the lack of public access to Massachusetts beaches, two state lawmakers are renewing the push to demand a bigger public foothold.

Given the rising demands for beach access and dwindling supply as many Massachusetts beaches are simply getting smaller through erosion and sea level rise, state Rep. Dylan Fernandes and Sen. Julian Cyr from the Cape and Islands are reviving an old battle cry to dismantle the state law dating back to the Colonial era that allows private ownership of beachfront property all the way down to the low-tide line.

It is just a fundamental human right that no individual should own the ocean or the sand beneath its waves, state Rep. Dylan Fernandes said in April, standing on a bluff over a Woods Hole beach. I've gotten emails and phone calls from people all over the state just giving us horror stories of getting screamed at, chased with shovels and golf clubs, berated just for touching a little piece of private beach in the intertidal zone. And people are fed up with that.

Under the state law, the only activities a private owner must allow in the intertidal zone a strip of sand between the low and high tide lines are fishing, fowling and navigation. Fernandes and Cyrs bill, filed last year, would add a single and radical word to that list: recreation.

Michael Dwyer / AP

Allowing unfettered recreational access to the intertidal zone would create a seismic shift along Massachusetts strands, but the proposal is fraught with contention and would likely be subject to legal challenges from private beach owners demanding state compensation for devaluing their property.

Maine, Delaware and Virginia are the only other ocean-facing states in the U.S. that allow private ownership all the way to the low tide line. Maines highest court declared similar legislation in 1989 an unconstitutional taking of private property.

Fernandes and Cyr are far from the first Massachusetts politicians to wade into this controversy over beach access. After getting chased off a private beach in the early 1970s, the powerful former Senate President William Bulger tried and failed to undo the restrictive state law. The Massachusetts Supreme Judicial Court signaled in 1974 it would rule against legislation infringing on the property rights of private beach owners.

While Bulgers legacy kept alive some governmental efforts to increase beach access through the 1990s, a lack of funding and a lack of interest among coastal towns stymied any significant progress, said Geordie Vining, the former director of coastal access planning for the state between 1994 and 2000.

I would go into towns and on the beaches to work with local officials and state representatives. And for the most part, everyone was telling me, No, we don't want public coastal access here for all of the typical reasons of privacy and fear of crime and trash," said Vining, now a planner for the coastal city of Newburyport.

In 1998, the state started a program called Coastal Access Legal and Mediation Services (CALMS), aimed at helping citizens identify historic rights of way to the shoreline that had been forgotten or unused, and that could provide public access to beaches.

James Smith, a plumberturnedbeach activist in Plymouth, applied to the program for help after private waterfront owners hassled him for parking near a shoreline access point in the Cedarville section of Plymouth.

I got tired of people telling me I didn't belong down there when I'd go down there to go fishing, and threats of having my vehicle towed, said Smith.

After years of researching historic deeds, Smith said he unearthed proof that Plymouth had a right of way to the beach. But even with a pro bono attorney assigned by the state mediation program, he couldnt get Plymouth leaders to pursue the case.

Vining cant remember the program yielding any real progress. A coastal access conference at the State House held in the early summer of 1999 also gained little traction. And when Vining left for a new job, the state never rehired for the post of coastal access planner.

The states most recent initiative to address beach access came in 2017 when the Office of Coastal Zone Management launched an online beach locator: an interactive map of the Massachusetts coast dotted with hundreds of colorful beach umbrellas.

But the guide leaves it up to users to figure out which of those beaches are truly public.

CZM makes no representations or warranties with respect to the definitiveness of the private or public ownership data presented in Coast Guide Online, the agency wrote to GBH News. All issues related to questions of ownership of coastal property should be investigated at the local Registry of Deeds.

And the state clearly isnt making an effort to promote the site. Over the last two years, traffic on the website averaged just seven views a day, according to documents obtained by GBH News.

Public beaches, but no public parking

Despite state surveys of residents in 2012 and 2017 showing a high demand for more beaches, the state has not acquired any new recreational beach properties since the late 1980s.

What the state has done is invest millions of taxpayer dollars into town-owned beaches, many of which are kept entirely or mostly off-limits to the general public through a system of beach stickers and exclusionary parking ordinances that make a day at the beach difficult or expensive for visitors to enjoy. Marshfield alone received a state grant of about $2 million to build a new seawall in 2015 at Sunrise Beach in the storm-prone Brant Rock section of town, where there is no parking for nonresidents.

Its an ironic circumstance of people wanting state money, but not wanting taxpayers to actually come and be able to benefit from their investment."

Critics say this exclusionary system is inherently unfair.

The difficulty of getting out to the beaches that are public through these local restrictions is a statewide issue, said Peter Shelley, senior counsel at the Conservation Law Foundation in Boston. You're not allowed to park, and that's the way they defeat the public's ability, from a practical standpoint, to get out onto a beach that they otherwise would have every right to be on.

Coastal towns own more than 35% of the publicly owned beach frontage in Massachusetts, according to the 1990 state inventory, and many towns are making it harder to access those beaches. In recent years, towns including Plymouth, Hull and Manchester-By-The-Sea have further restricted or banned nonresident parking near their shores.

Shelley says the state should make public beach access a requirement for communities seeking state money to make their beaches more resistant to climate change.

Its an ironic circumstance of people wanting state money, but not wanting taxpayers to actually come and be able to benefit from their investment, Shelley said. If you're coming to the public well, to ask for money for your beach, then I think a reasonable quid pro quo for that ought to be: Enhance public access.

Rep. Fernandes agrees, saying beach towns that arent letting all members of the public have access to their beaches should not receive any state funds for those recreation areas.

We should not be spending a single dollar of taxpayer money on refurbishing beaches, on hardening surfaces, on doing anything coastal, unless the public has full access to those areas, Fernandes said.

The Executive Office of Energy and Environmental Affairs claims it is already evaluating grant applications based partly on enhancing public access, but state spending data show several towns receiving funds for coastal resilience despite limiting beach access to only residents or vacationers renting in their town:

Chris Burrell / GBH News

For people who dont live in coastal towns or pay the high cost of summer vacation rentals, these policies generally mean the beaches are off limits.

Given the disparate access, some minorities and lower-income residents in the state might not even bother trying to get to ocean beaches, according to a 2012 survey cited in the Massachusetts Comprehensive Outdoor Recreation Plan.

Higher income households and white, non-Hispanic households use the coast more frequently, the report said.

And on beaches that are easily accessible for diverse, urban communities, pollution sometimes creates another barrier. Public beaches in Dorchester, Quincy and Lynn were each closed more than a dozen days in 2020.

Kings Beach, which straddles Lynn and Swampscott, is a gorgeous crescent of beach but frequently fails bacteria testing because of long-standing sewer pipe problems that allow pungent sewage to discharge from stormwater drains onto the beach after heavy storms.

Last August, Guy Zaccardi was out for a walk overlooking Kings Beach, where red warning flags flapped in the wind.

We don't have a yard. This was our yard and nowadays we can't even come down the trash, the pollution, not being able to go into the water. It's all been very detrimental, said Zaccardi, who lives in Swampscott just a couple blocks from the beach.

Just south in Revere, Jacqueline Chavez said her citys well-known public beach suffers from a stigma of being too dirty for swimming.

I talked to people: Why don't you go in the water? said Chavez, who moved to Massachusetts from Miami. And theres this negative connotation [that] you don't swim in Revere. And it's like, Oh, I swam in Revere and there was a syringe in the water and theres broken glass.

Chavez is calling for improvements on Revere Beach, including better language access on public signage for people with limited English language abilities.

Chris Burrell / GBH News

For non-residents who do try to make a day at the shore, just getting on a beach often requires scrambling for a parking space at one of the select few public ocean beaches under state, federal or nonprofit ownership.

The state-owned Lynn-Nahant Reservation beach, which is 1.5 miles long, has a parking lot with 950 spaces and every one of those spots is in high demand come summertime.

On a hot day, the lot fills up by 10 a.m. said a worker collecting $10 entrance fees or checking for annual passes last August.

That forces people like Hilary Dawson and her husband, Carlos Funes, from Arlington, to race to beat the crowds.

You usually have to kind of leave at the crack of dawn. Would you say, Carlos, like the latest you can leave is probably by seven? Dawson, a schoolteacher, said to her husband, who is a chef. They made it to the Lynn-Nahant beach with their 6-year-old daughter on a Wednesday in late August.

But why this beach?

We used to go to Gloucester, said Dawson. Wingarsheek, Good Harbor and all that. But that's gotten really expensive, like 25, 30 bucks to park.

GBH News interns Emma Foehringer Merchant and Hannah Green contributed reporting to this story.

Do you have a personal story about confronting barriers at the beach? We'd love to hear from you. Email us at investigations@wgbh.org.

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Barriers at the Beach: State law and town rules keep most of Mass. shoreline off-limits - GBH News

Located along Georgias gorgeous Golden Isles, Jekyll Island Club Resort was once the home of the Millionaires Club, a vacation destination for Americas wealthiest families, representing about one-sixth of the worlds wealth and including familiar names such as Rockefeller, Morgan, Vanderbilt, Astor, Gould, Pulitzer and their friends and colleagues.

Now part of Jekyll Island State Park, which is celebrating its 75th anniversary this year, the entire island oozes Lowcountry sophistication the minute you drive across the causeway, as lush palm trees, moss-draped centuries-old live oaks and windswept dunes rise along the horizon.

Sophisticated historic accommodations that housed the rich and famous can be found in San Souci (French for carefree), built in 1896 for some of the clubs founding members, including J. P. Morgan. Billed as Americas first known condominium, it originally was composed of six private, 3,500-square-foot apartments but now houses 24 modern rooms. Two of the original cottages built as luxurious private member homes are also available for overnight stays. The resort also features a modern, 40-room oceanfront option at the Jekyll Ocean Club.

Guests can enjoy many of the same activities that original club members did, including croquet on the front lawn, bicycling along oyster tabby paths, playing golf on one of four courses, playing tennis on one of 13 clay courts and swimming in the ocean, a short distance away.

Additionally, the resort offers history tours via trolley and horseback, visits to the neighboring Georgia Sea Turtle Center, dolphin tours, charter fishing and shopping at the Pier Road shops, which formerly served as housing for Club employees.

Meals at Jekyll Island Club continue the millionaires tradition, starting in the Grand Dining Room where breakfast, Sunday brunch and special holiday meals are served in an historic ambiance appointed with a fireplace, grand columns and black-and-white photos of the Club of yesteryear. Casual lunches are provided at The Pantry, while dinner is served at The Wharf, where guests back in the day would arrive by boat, and Eighty Ocean Kitchen and Bar at Jekyll Ocean Club, which offers a contemporary culinary experience that would make any millionaire proud.

Jekyll Island Club Resort. $389 and up. 371 Riverview Drive, Jekyll Island. 912-319-4349, http://www.jekyllclub.com.

The library at Greyfield Inn is the perfect place to curl up with a good book. Courtesy of Peter Frank Edwards.

Credit: Peter Frank Edwards

Credit: Peter Frank Edwards

The library at Greyfield Inn is the perfect place to curl up with a good book. Courtesy of Peter Frank Edwards.

Credit: Peter Frank Edwards

Credit: Peter Frank Edwards

Greyfield Inn

The largest and southernmost of Georgias sea islands, Cumberland Island is one of the most unspoiled and natural of all the Golden Isles. Accessible only by ferry, the 18-mile-long island of salt marshes and tidal creeks features the Cumberland Island National Park, a protected wilderness thick with centuries-old live oak trees draped with Spanish moss and palmetto plants, as well as herds of wild horses and the Gilded Age sanctuary Greyfield Inn.

Built in 1900 by Thomas Carnegie (brother of steel magnate Andrew Carnegie) and his wife Lucy as a gift for their daughter, Margaret, Greyfield Inn was opened as an inn by Margarets daughter, Lucy Ferguson and her family in 1962. It remains the only commercial establishment on the island. Still run by fifth and sixth generations of the Carnegie family, the 14-room inn exudes the same romance and character it did when it was a family home where guests of the Gilded Age were entertained.

Outside, an inviting front porch welcomes guests with rocking chairs and bench swings. Inside, a large and warm parlor, an honor bar, a library filled floor to ceiling with old books, a richly appointed dining room and the Inns unique guest rooms are appointed with original family heirlooms, antiques and family photos, making visitors feel like houseguests of millionaire acquaintances. Bathrooms feature original claw-foot tubs and marble sinks, while the kitchen sports the original stove.

The day begins with a full breakfast served each morning, and a picnic lunch is provided for eating on the porch or patio or on an island excursion. In the evening, a single seating is held for a formal three-course dinner, much of it prepared with ingredients from Greyfields 1.5-acre garden. Guests are requested to wear appropriate dinner attire (jackets for men and casual dresses for women), making the evening a festive affair, followed by a nightcap on the front porch or by the firepit under the stars.

Days are filled much the same way the Carnegies and their guests wiled away their time: swimming and sunbathing on the deserted beaches, walking, biking and visiting the historic relics of the island, including the ruins of the original Carnegie home, Dungeness. Modern day guests can kayak and take a tour with the resident naturalist and historian.

The Greyfield Inn. $675 a night, includes meals, activities and ferry transportation. Two-night minimum required. 4 N 2nd St, Cumberland Island. 904-261-6408, http://www.greyfieldinn.com.

Views of the ocean from the Historic Inn of Ponte Vedra Inn & Club. Courtesy of Ponte Vedra Inn & Club.

Credit: Handout

Views of the ocean from the Historic Inn of Ponte Vedra Inn & Club. Courtesy of Ponte Vedra Inn & Club.

Credit: Handout

Credit: Handout

Ponte Vedra Inn & Club

At the turn of the 20th century, Ponte Vedra on Floridas northeast coast was little more than an uninhabited swath of sand dunes, marshlands and palmetto trees. By 1912, the dunes had been discovered to be rich in valuable minerals that aided in the production of steel. By the end of WWI, the need for ore dwindled and The National Lead Company transformed the beachfront property into a resort playground for the nations socialites. The Ponte Vedra Club opened its doors in 1928 to much fanfare among Floridas Whos Who.

As word spread, the well-heeled and moneyed movers and shakers from the North came to the resort with their families and guests for sun, sand, surf, sports and socializing. Today, those traditions live on at Ponte Vedra Inn & Clubs 300-acre luxury oceanfront resort.

The elegance of an earlier time begins as guests arrive for check-in, located in the Historic Inn, part of the original 1937 clubhouse. The reception area is understated coastal elegance, with the nearby Great Lounge offering two fireplaces, vaulted ceilings and furnishings that exude the lifestyles of the rich and famous. Just off the lounge is the original Inn Dining Room boasting soaring ceilings, stunning wood beams and a full breakfast each morning.

Other amenities of the Historic Inn include a small history museum filled with photos of the inns early days, The Tavern, The Gourmet Shop caf serving coffee, pastries, sandwiches, salads and wines, as well as several shops.

Among the amenities the upper crust would have enjoyed back in the day, there is golf, tennis, croquet and several swimming pools. Modern day amenities include a 30,000-square-foot spa and an oceanfront fitness center.

But the true calling card of Ponte Vedra is the exquisite accommodations. With island or lagoon views from rooms in the Historic Inn or oceanfront rooms and suites just steps away from the beach (many of which recently underwent renovations), guests will feel pampered and spoiled, just as the wealthy forebears that came before them.

Ponte Vedra Inn & Club. $732 and up. 200 Ponte Vedra Blvd., Ponte Vedra Beach, Florida. (888) 839-9145, http://www.pontevedra.com.

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Gilded Age, Roaring 20s live on in the Souths grand hotels - The Atlanta Journal Constitution

There is nowhere I've felt happier than in Ibiza,and there is nowhere I've felt worse than in Ibiza. These two statements may seem contradictory, but in fact, they're closely connected. Ibiza is my favorite place on the planet. For the past two decades, it's been the only destination I've visited every year except one. When the pandemic grounded me in London for 18 months, I missed my friends in New York City and my family in Paris. But what I really missed missed with a physical ache were evenings in Ibiza, when the light turns rose-pink and gold, the air fills with the chirp of cicadas, and you can actually feel your skin prickle with anticipation as you wonder what adventures the night will bring.

Like a lot of British people of my generation, I first went to Ibiza looking for fun and boy, did I find it. It was the early 2000s, the era of the super-club and the superstar DJ. Carl Cox, Judgement, Pete Tong, Manumission: these were the gods of the island, talked about with the solemnity other cultures reserve for philosophers and heads of state. On one of my first summers in Ibiza, I went with a friend who was just starting his career as a DJ. The nights always seemed to end with him playing at someone's private party in an over-the-top villa, or on the kind of yacht I thought only existed in 1980s TV shows. Once I danced on a beach as the sun came up while my friend played Lionel Ritchie's "All Night Long" and I thought,Life does not get better than this.

From left: A Moroccan-style doorway at Pike's hotel, once the location of the island's most legendary parties; paddleboarding at Punta Galera, in the southwest of Ibiza. | Credit: Gunnar Knechtel

But no matter how late the party went on, the morning always rolled around. Because I've had the most fun in Ibiza, I have also had the worst hangovers there. On my first morning back at work after that trip with my DJ friend, my skin was so gray, my eyes so hollow, that my boss asked if I'd suffered a recent bereavement.

Unlike me, this 220-square-mile dot off the coast of eastern Spain can party hard and still keep its looks. Known as La Isla Blanca (the white island), for the limewash used on the farmhouses, or possibly for the sea salt still harvested on Ses Salines Beach, much of Ibiza remains remarkably unspoiled. The third largest of the Balearic Islands, it's an irresistible mix of big, bright beaches, tiny rocky coves, and evergreen hills and woodlands.

The Ibiza "scene" began in the 1960s, when hippies were drawn by the destination's unique confluence of "ley lines" magnetic fields thought to convey spiritual energy. In the 70s, the island morphed into a gleefully hedonistic place, where parents danced all night at full-moon parties while their children slept peacefully in the parking lot. In the 80s and into the 90s, Ibiza was the epicenter of rave culture and the dance-music explosion that followed; by the 2000s it became Europe's biggest party destination, attracting everyone from drunken teenagers to celebrities like Diddy and Leonardo DiCaprio, who would moor their megayachts out in the turquoise bays.

The pool at the Oku Ibiza hotel. | Credit: Gunnar Knechtel

What comes next? Even before the pandemic, some of the best-loved clubs had shut. Ibiza's notoriously high prices ($100 is a standard nightclub entrance fee) have changed the clientele that vacations there, and the new visitors don't necessarily want the same things those drunken European teenagers enjoyed a decade ago.

Then there is COVID. This summer, Ibiza's clubs are said to be opening, but when I went last fall they were still closed, all businesses were subject to a 2 a.m. curfew (the equivalent of 9 p.m. anywhere else), and most shockingly dancing was banned. Ibiza without dancing? This would be like France without wine, Britain without pubs. What is Ibiza without any fun? And what next for an island that has priced itself out of casual hedonism? I'd read back in 2019 that the thoughtful hippie culture the place was originally known for was making a resurgence, with a new generation of vegan restaurants, wellness retreats, and organic farms. Was this the next shift? Together with my usual Ibiza partner in crime, Emily, I got on a plane to find out.

Known as La Isla Blanca (the white island), for the limewash used on the farmhouses, or possibly for the sea salt still harvested on Ses Salines Beach, much of Ibiza remains remarkably unspoiled

In our first night, we went to the place where many say Ibiza's party reputation began: Pike's, a hotel as steeped in legend as the Chateau Marmont in Los Angeles or Claridge's in London. In 1983, when George Michael and Andrew Ridgeley of Wham needed a nonstop pool party for their "Club Tropicana" video, they headed to Pike's, and that unmistakable tiled pool is still the focal point of the hotel although contrary to what Michael promised in the lyrics, the drinks are definitely not free.

From left: A quiet courtyard at Pike's hotel; flamingo dcor at Pike's hotel. | Credit: Gunnar Knechtel

Ever since the raconteur and party animal Tony Pike opened the hotel in the 70s, Pike's has epitomized Ibiza at its most louche: Freddie Mercury hosted 700 guests at his infamous 41st birthday there in 1987, and the place became known for parties that were a little racy, even by local standards. But by 2011, the hotel was looking pretty down at the heels. That's when club impresarios Andy McKay and Dawn Hindle stepped in, bought the property, and carried out an extensive but sympathetic makeover. Today, Pike's gleams like a jewel in the night, from Pamela's, the shocking-pink bar and restaurant, to the kaleidoscopic loungers around the pool. The dcor is so joyful that it feels like a celebration even with everyone obediently sitting down.

"People aren't coming to Ibiza to party so much anymore," Hindle told me from her perch behind the bar. "Early evenings are for cocktails around the pool, and it's become less about dancing, drugs, and DJs. Ibiza's more about relaxing now, and the restaurant scene is exploding, especially in Santa Gertrudis."

From left: Pomegranates ripening at Six Senses Ibiza; an olive tree forms the centerpiece of the Farmer's Market, a restaurant at Six Senses. | Credit: Gunnar Knechtel

The next day Emily and I set off for this once-sleepy inland village, which is now the heart of a booming culinary scene. We had reservations at Wild Beets, a vegan restaurant that has become one of Ibiza's hottest tables. We arrived at 12:30 p.m. not even breakfast time, by what used to be local standards to find Wild Beets full of bright-eyed, beautiful people drinking protein smoothies and eating Buddha bowls. Like a lot of his clients, the chef, Cliff Grubin, used to be a hedonist, but has since swapped self-destruction for self-care, specializing first in juicing and eventually branching out into raw food.

Feeling a little too hungover to settle for a salad, I ordered a raw lasagna made with zucchini strips, almond ricotta, and cashew bchamel. Emily had a bowl that seemed to include every kind of vegan protein available; both were so good we fell uncharacteristically silent, and by the time we left the two of us were high on the feeling of good health.

From left: Vegan pesto spaghettini at El Chiringuito; a plant-based omelet and parfait at Wild Beets. | Credit: Gunnar Knechtel

Restaurants are the new clubs," Serena Cook told me the next day. Few have had a closer view of how Ibiza has changed over the past two decades than Cook, who set up a concierge company, Deliciously Sorted, in 2002. She knows all too well how people's expectations of the island have changed. Because the clubs were shut in the summers of 2020 and 2021, her clients were focused on hard-to-get lunch tables at new places like Casa Maca, El Silencio, and especially Jondal, the latest "it" restaurant, and a harbinger of what theFinancial Timeshas called Ibiza's new "gastro-fueled hedonism."

Yet, as exciting and fun as Ibiza's new places are, my favorite restaurants will always be the older places that serve traditional Spanish and Catalan food. Es Torrent is the home of the best paella I've ever had, and El Chiringuito feels less like a restaurant and more like the most elegant beach party in the world.

From left: Es Torrent's famous paella; outdoor seating at Es Torrent. | Credit: Gunnar Knechtel

Once upon a time I would have had only drinks at El Chiringuito, but when we went there for lunch I ate a big plate of spaghetti with a luminous green pesto, and I felt two things I had never experienced on previous trips to Ibiza: healthy and full. "What's even more striking is that people now want those lunch reservations at two p.m., instead of four p.m., which is how it used to be. But everyone's going to bed at two a.m. these days," Cook added.

"Early evenings are for cocktails around the pool. It's become less about dancing, drugs, and DJs. Ibiza's more about relaxing now."

Emily and I woke early again the next morning and headed out to Fincadelica, an enormous 300-year-old villa that exemplifies, more than any restaurant, how much Ibiza has changed. Owned by Shai Ben Ozair, Mati Rachminov, and Amit Segev, who described themselves to me as a "trio of global nomads," Fincadelica is in the north of Ibiza, set on 20 acres dotted with olive and orange groves.

This is the most exclusive villa on the island, and it is ultra-luxurious, but not in a flashy way. Instead of an infinity pool, it has a pretty egg-shaped saltwater one. It is decorated with Ibizan antiques and modern pieces by Scandinavian designers although with nine bedrooms, nine full-time staff members, a private cinema, an underground soundproofed party cave, and, in summer, a $77,000-a-week price tag, this is definitely not your standard summer rental.

From left: Ibiza's northern coast, as seen from the wildflower garden at Six Senses; Sundowner's at Pike's. | Credit: Gunnar Knechtel

"Even before the pandemic, people were realizing that the ultimate luxury is privacy," said Cook, of Deliciously Sorted. "In the COVID era, there has been a huge upsurge in people looking for large villas where they can stay with families and friends, and with private chefs, cinemas, and so on, so they don't have to leave."

Next to the house is an enchanting and enormous biodynamic vegetable garden. The Italian couple who tend it, Lorena Turrini and Davide Rizzi, walked me around the carrots and zucchini, explaining with infectious passion how each one corresponds to a planet, "so walking through the garden feels like walking through the cosmos." We came to a yurt manned by a couple introduced to me as "Miriam and Essah, gatekeepers of the healing area," who talked to me about the importance of "connecting with our earth." Connecting with the earth in a $77,000-a-week villa: you can't get more Ibiza 2020s than that.

From left: A staffer in the 20-acre garden at villa rental Fincadelica; an outdoor lounge at Fincadelica. | Credit: Gunnar Knechtel

Most of my favorite Ibizan hotels are converted farmhouses, or fincas, such as Es Cucons and La Granja Ibiza, both of which are lovely. But then Emily and I walked into Atzar. If you ever find yourself in Ibiza and are feeling a little worse for wear from the night before, there are few better places to recover than on one of the massive daybeds at thisagriturismo,which allows non-guests to book day passes to its extensive spa. Dotted with lily ponds and shaded by orange trees, Atzar's garden is honestly one of the most stunning places I have ever been. We drank freshly pressed juices and ate salads made from vegetables grown in the organic garden, and as dragonflies skipped over the hotel's incredible Y-shaped lap pool, we dozed, as contented as lotus-eaters.

"The mid- to low-range hotels on the island were disappearing, and COVID accelerated that," said Leane Lacase, Atzar's head of PR and marketing. "Now there's a more luxe, high-end, spiritual feel. It's returning to the sixties version of Ibiza, with an interest in authenticity and going back to nature. It's luxurious, but not bling."

The food at all three of the restaurants at Six Senses is superb, the list of activities inexhaustible, but the real star is the spa, which is hidden away down a spiral staircase, like the lair of a villain from a James Bond film.

In recent years, Atzar has been swapping out the familiar signifiers of bohemian culture ("Everyone had a Buddha in 2004," Lacase said with a laugh) and replacing them with traditional Ibizan crafts and natural materials. Greenery is everywhere, from the orange trees in the spa garden to the lush plants in all of the rooms. "Wellness isn't just about treatments, but about feeling a connection with nature," Lacase said.

The view from the private terrace of a guest room at the Six Senses Ibiza. | Credit: Gunnar Knechtel

The part of Ibiza I like best is the wild and rocky northern tip, which is dotted with little coves, instead of the expansive beaches of the south. So when, three years ago, I found out that a giant luxury hotel was being built on the hills above a pretty bay named Cala Xarraca, my heart sank. Great, a cookie-cutter mega-hotel squatting up there like a giant white elephant, I huffed.

Well, foresight was never my strong suit, because Six Senses Ibiza, which opened in summer 2021, is very much the opposite of that. For a start, it's not white, but built from stone in shades of rust and tan, so it blends in with the hills. And it is very much an Ibizan hotel, built using local materials. With the de rigueur vegetable garden, it feels almost like anagriturismoon a grand scale.

In the evenings there are sunset ceremonies around the pool, in which a shaman blesses and waves incense around willing guests. You can choose ingredients from the garden, such as lavender, aloe vera, or almonds, to make into your own beauty products in the spa. But given that this is a Six Senses resort, these little homespun touches are underpinned by eye-popping levels of luxury. My suite was about three times as big as my apartment, with idyllic views of the infinity pool, the private cove, and the sunsets that illuminated them each evening. The suite even came with its own sizable garden. In the mornings, I strolled through it with my almond-milk cappuccino, my eyes full of the sea, my feet bouncing happily on the grass.

From left: A singing bowl is incorporated in a spa treatment at Six Senses Ibiza, a new wellness-focused property in the north of the island; the spa at Six Senses. | Credit: Gunnar Knechtel

The food at all three of the restaurants is superb, the list of activities (boat trips, yoga, boxing, etc.) inexhaustible, but the real star is the spa, which is hidden away down a spiral staircase, like the lair of a villain from a James Bond film. I started off with some of the "biohack" treatments, including a "cryofacial," during which my face was blasted with cold air as if I were downhill skiing, and IV rehydration, in which vitamins were pumped through my body. I was skeptical, but I looked and felt so undeniably better afterward that I booked repeat sessions of both.

The most beneficial treatment, though, turned out to be a (relatively) traditional facial, which involved lush homemade potions, the ultra-natural (and high-end) brand Nottnuit, and a tuning fork being rung in my ear ("proven to assist DNA repair," I was assured). Maybe it was the tuning fork, or the IV, or my guest room, which was utterly silent save for the sound of the sea and where I slept soundly for nine hours a night. But by the end of the trip, I felt better than I had in years.

"You lookgood," my husband said when I arrived back home. He was confused because he's more used to welcoming back a broken wraith after my Ibiza trips. A couple of days later, Six Senses sent me the results of the "wellness test" I took at the end of my stay: perfect health and serotonin levels through the roof. Ibiza is still fun but now, astonishingly, it's good for you, too.

From left: Lorena Turrini and Davide Rizzi at work in Fincadelica's garden; the Tower Suite at Fincadelica. | Credit: Gunnar Knechtel

Where to Stay

Fincadelica: Set on a lush estate on thenorthern end of the island, this nine-bedroom converted farmhouse sleeps 18 and is available for buyouts only. Guestshave use of a movie theater and a soundproofed dance room. Meals are prepared by the house's chef from produce grown on site.

Oku Ibiza: This sprawling property inSan Antonio, on the island's western side, ishome to Ibiza's longest pool and has a buzzy daytime vibe. The Japanese-inspired restaurant is also a standout.

Six Senses Ibiza: Tucked on the island's rugged northern coast, the resort brand's first Spanish outpost offers 116rooms and suites, plus a lengthy menu of custom spa treatments and fitness and meditation classes, as well as "biohacking" therapies. The boutique, Agora, stocks ethically sourced souvenirs; guests who are planning a big night out can also rent designer evening wear.

Where to Eat & Drink

Club Tropicana Pool Bar & Terrace: This Ibiza institution at Pike's hotel, where George Michael and Freddie Mercury once partied, is still one of the best placesfor people-watching. Sipon a Baby Jane and step back in time.

El Chiringuito: This happening spot near Ses Salines Beach serves burgers, sandwiches, tapas, and more and the DJ set always keepsthings lively.

Es Torrent: Located on a quiet cove, this seafood spot makes the best paella on the island.

Jondal: Getting a table at this lunch-only restaurant on sandy Cala Jondal requires persistence. Once you've made it in, try the scorpion fish or stingray, either fried or grilled.

Wild Beets: This vegan spot has a dazzling breakfast menu of smoothies, juices, porridge bowls, and veggie toasts.

What to Do

Annie's Ibiza: This boutique in Ibiza OldTown has a party outfit for every taste, whether it's a vintage jumpsuit or a sequined evening gown.

Atzar: There's no better place to recover from a late night than the garden ofthis inland agriturismo, which has a fantastic spathat's open to non-guests.

Deliciously Sorted Ibiza: Owner Serena Cook hasplayed concierge and event planner to some of Ibiza's starriest visitors.

A version of this story firstappearedin the June 2022 issue ofTravel + Leisureunder the headlineThis Enchanted Island

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Ibiza Is Still the Best Place to Party in Spain but It's Also a Luxury Wellness Destination - Travel + Leisure