The skincare ingredient is all over our TikTok feeds but what actually is it and does it really deserve all the attention?

From Argireline and Matrixyl to anti-wrinkle straws and not moving your face at all, TikTok has propagated a range of different anti-ageing hacks over the years, with varying degrees of practicality and effectiveness. Its not surprising that there is so much demand for this kind of advice people are more afraid than ever of showing visible signs of ageing and reactions on social media can verge on cruel if someone is deemed to look too old. We live in a time where however you age, whatever you do, its your fault, as we increasingly view anti-ageing as a personal responsibility. Under this lens, looking older becomes a moral failing, as Laura Pitcher wrote earlier this year.

Amidst this landscape, a new skincare ingredient has been all over our TikTok feeds recently: resveratrol. Here is one of the biggest science-based interventions I used to reverse the ageing in my skin, shares TikTokker Mikayla Flynn before introducing the viewers to resveratrol in a video that has over 1.2 million views. Derived from grapes, berries and nuts, resveratrol is an antioxidant praised for its potential to combat ageing at a cellular level. But does resveratrol really hold the key to everlasting youth, or is it just the latest fleeting obsession in this digital age?

Popularised by Harvard longevity biologist David Sinclair, resveratrol is a polyphenol antioxidant that has been deemed a powerhouse anti-aging ingredient for the whole body. Resveratrol is a phytoalexin derived from the skin of grapes. It contains both antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, explains Dr Jaimie Glick MD, dermatologist at New York Dermatology Group.

Resveratrol can be taken as a supplement or applied topically to the skin, but either way it boasts antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-cancer properties. When applied as skincare, the molecular structure of resveratrol enables it to penetrate the skin barrier, where it works to extend the lifespan of cells and bolster collagen production, promoting skin repair while also fortifying the skins natural defences against environmental stressors, including harmful UV rays and pollution.

Resveratrol interacts with the skin on a molecular level by easily penetrating the skin barrier and increasing the lifespan of cells, says Dr Dendy Engelman, a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist and Mohs Surgeon at Shafer Clinic in New York City. It can also stimulate collagen production and protect from UV rays. This translates to slowing the appearance of ageing skin.

Resveratrol has been shown to protect against oxidative stress by acting as a scavenger for free radicals. It also interferes with inflammatory pathways, states Dr Glick. Like all antioxidants, resveratrol protects your cells from accumulating damage. By elevating antioxidant levels in the skin, it expedites the skins healing process, resulting in a smoother complexion. Its protective shield against UV damage and pollution helps stave off premature ageing, preserving skin elasticity and firmness. In addition, the polyphenol has hydrating and soothing properties that offer vitality for tired and stressed skin.

Beyond anecdotal claims on the internet, resveratrols efficacy has been tested in numerous research studies. In addition to its anti-aging properties, resveratrol shows promise in penetrating the skin barrier and in addressing specific skin concerns such as acne and eczema. Its anti-inflammatory properties calm redness, reduce irritation and promote overall skin health. In some clinical studies, resveratrol-containing formulations have shown efficacy in alleviating acne lesions and improving the symptoms of inflammatory skin conditions, assisting with a more rapid healing of wounds on the body.

Its most popular supposed effect is, of course, the power it has to anti-age. It works against the effects of free radicals and oxidative stress, extending the lifespan of skin cells and mitigating DNA damage. A recent study showed nightly application of resveratrol was associated with increased collagen production and a decrease in reactive oxygen species leading to clinical improvement in elasticity and skin thickness, says Dr Glick.

In-vitro studies have shown the benefits of resveratrol for prevention of photoaging and even for acne. In one study, the ingredient showed antibacterial activity for a sustained, longer period of time. Does resveratrol compare to other skincare ingredients like retinol and Vitamin C in terms of its effectiveness? Given resveratrols ability to affect skin from a molecular level, it has astounding capabilities to help diminish fine lines and improve tone and texture. Ingredients like retinol and vitamin C may show more immediate results, but adding resveratrol into your routine will help boost and prolong results, says Dr Engelman.

As with any skincare ingredient, its essential to exercise caution and consult with a dermatologist before integrating something new into your skincare regimen, particularly if you have sensitive skin or specific concerns. But for the most part, its generally safe to use. Because of its anti-inflammatory effects I find it particularly well-tolerated. Products containing resveratrol have even been shown to improve facial redness and rosacea, says Dr Glick.

There are, of course, some studies that show a different side to the miracle ingredient, especially when claiming that we can take resveratrol as a supplement and instantly become ten years younger. At the Johns Hopkins University School of Medicine, scientists conducted a study on about 800 men and women, all who were above the ages of 65 and had diets full of foods that were naturally rich in resveratrol. To their surprise, the participants urine analysis didnt contain any difference in resveratrol levels.

It seems ingesting resveratrol has shown no benefit, except if youre consuming it in high doses. Another 2014 paper on reducing blood pressure concluded that when comparing lower and higher supplementation, participants who took more resveratrol showed decreased hypertension.

Beauty brands are investing in research and development more than, and anti-ageing unsurprisingly remains their top priority. I am sure we will see more start to bubble up with resveratrol. With benefits such as anti-aging, UV protection and anti-inflammatory properties, we can expect to see resveratrol in many more sunscreens and skin care products, says Dr Engelman.

Of course, like with all skincare products, no-one needs to use resveratrol and there is nothing wrong with showing signs of ageing. Getting older is a privilege and the only people who benefit from our insecurities around ageing, ultimately, is beauty corporations and their profit margins.

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Resveratrol: what is TikToks latest anti-ageing skincare obsession? - Dazed