Solitude and adventure on the Sunshine Coast – The Province

Egmont Adventure Centre takes wildlife seekers to see a colony of Stellar sea lions.Lisa Kadane

You could jump in and swim with them, suggests Lucas Hansen, our guide from the Egmont Adventure Centre, as he guides the boat closer to the colony of Stellar sea lions. Two of them,El Jefe and Jabba the Hutt as theyve been nicknamed,bluff charge each other on their rocky islet in the Malaspina Straight.

I pass, but not because Im intimidated by their size the water in the channel that separates B.C.s Sunshine Coast from Texada Island is downright chilly.

Stellar sea lions, the worlds largest, live in abundance off the Sunshine Coast.Lisa Kadane

Nestled in the southwest corner of mainland B.C. and accessible only by ferry or air, the coastal wilderness stretches 180 km from Hopkins Landing up to Lund. Its split in two by the Jervis Inlet, requiring travellers heading to Powell River or beyond to take another ferry between Earls Cove on the south coast and Saltery Bay on the north coast. Its main artery, the Sunshine Coast Highway, winds through small communities separated by secluded coves and hemmed in by steep mountains robed green in cedar, fir and hemlock.

Hopkins Landing, the jumping off point for the region, is only a 40-minute ferry ride from Horseshoe Bay. It feels an ocean away from the bustle of Vancouver. For families, the Sunshine Coast lures with deserted beaches, tide pools and laid-back, welcoming towns. For the adventurous, numerous pursuits await, from hiking into the solitude of temperate rainforest, to kayaking around tiny private islands just offshore. Here, fresh air, clean water and unspoiled nature are the perfect antidote after months of staying put indoors.

Postcard perfect view from the dining room at the West Coast Wilderness Lodge.Lisa Kadane

What better place to go than nature? asks Paul Hanson, who owns the West Coast Wilderness Lodge in Egmont. People are going to be needing that wilderness healing power.

Start your Sunshine Coast stay by strolling around Gibsons Landing, a seven-minute drive from the ferry terminal. Most of the stores, eateries and attractions have reopened, including the aquarium at The Nicolas Sonntag Marine Education Centre, located inside the Gibsons Public Market.

Theres a lot more relaxation now around the idea of travellers coming over, especially among small business owners says Stephanie Heins, who owns the Drift Caf and Bistro in Gibsons Landing.

Be sure and stop in to Mollys Reach, a 1926 historic building on the waterfront that gained fame as the set of the Canadian TV classic The Beachcombersits a good place to get beer-battered fish & chips made with Pacific cod. For a glass of B.C. wine with a view of neighbouring Keats Island across the water, you cant beat the patio at the Drift.

Gibsons Landing.Chris Thorn Photography / Sunshine Coast Tourism

A scenic 25-minute drive that rolls through forest and alongside the placid water of the Georgia Straight brings you to Sechelt. Spend time at the tems swiya Museum to learn about the local shshlh Nation, or stop for beachcombing at Porpoise Bay Provincial Park, just north of town. There, a playground and picnic tables complement an inviting, sandy beach with a marked swimming area for kids.

Continue north for another hour to Egmont, a tiny hamlet with just 70 permanent residents and a downtown population of two. There are no trendy boutiques or bistros here, but the West Coast Wilderness Lodge (with an on-site restaurant), makes a good base for exploring the coast and forest for a few days.

The hike to Chatterbox Falls through old-growth forest.Lisa Kadane

After checking in, its just a kilometre walk or drive to the trailhead for The Skook. Its a four-km one-way hike to Skookumchuk Narrows, where 757 billion litres of water surges between the Sechelt and Jervis inlets during the tidal change. The twice-daily spectacle creates standing waves that attract experienced kayakers, and the easy walk to the rapids passes mossy tree trunks, towering cedars and lush ferns.

You need a full day to boat up to Princess Louisa Inlet, a remote fjord where waterfalls tumble down forested mountainsides and steep granite walls to dissolve in a spray of mist where fresh water meets the sea. Ask the captain to point out First Nations petroglyphs on the cliff walls en route, and keep an eye out for bald eagles overhead and harbor seals bobbing in the calm water.

A boat ride up the Princess Louisa Inlet.Greg Eymundson / Insight-Photography.com

Youll have the forest to yourself, at the inlets terminus, as you follow a winding path through towering fir trees to spectacular Chatterbox Falls. It feels like an alpine sanctuary, but at sea level.

After returning to Egmont, bliss out on the lodges spacious patio and toast natures ability to provide respite.

Getting there: BC Ferries sails regularly from Horseshoe Bay to Hopkins Landing. Face coverings are mandatory on all sailings. (bcferries.com)

Stay: Hike or mountain bike by day, kayak by twilight, and sleep peacefully in a comfortable, ocean-view room at the West Coast Wilderness Lodge. To make trip planning easy, the resort can package meals from its on-site restaurant, and activities through the Egmont Adventure Centre, including a visit to a sea lion colony and a day trip to stunning Princess Louisa Inlet.

Do: Be aware some businesses are operating with reduced hours. Be sure and call ahead or verify hours online.

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Solitude and adventure on the Sunshine Coast - The Province

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