Robert Wuns Futuristic AW21 Collection Is An Ode To His Grandmother – British Vogue

Robert Wun has three words to describe his ethereal designs: Escapism, futurism and feminism. Born and raised in Hong Kong, the designer studied womenswear at the prestigious London College of Fashion before launching his eponymous label in 2014. The 29-year-old has since established an otherworldly aesthetic thats caught the attention of Solange, Lady Gaga, Cardi B and Cline Dion, to name but a few.

With female empowerment at the core of his ethos, Wun is renowned for inventive, cutting-edge designs that celebrate the female form. For autumn/winter 2021, he unveiled an ode to the most important women in his life and, as always, everything is precision-cut genius. The collection is called Armour and its a tribute to my grandmother, who passed away last year. I wanted to create an army to go to heaven with her, he says. Every look is named after a woman in my life whos inspired me, from my sister and my mum to all of my good friends.

Ahead of the collection launch via his website, Vogue caught up with the designer over Zoom from his east London studio to discuss how the industry has so much further to go when it comes to genuine inclusivity, who hes loved seeing wear his clothes and how his latest collection is his most heart-wrenchingly personal one yet.

CEICILIA

Courtesy of Robert Wun

When I was 11, I met a cool girl a few years older than me at my familys church who started a course in fashion design and she changed my perception of everything. Then I started getting into thrift shopping and customising my own clothes.

I always felt that I needed to get out of there to finally be my true self. Now, I see that my culture gave me a strong work ethic, which is definitely something I carry with me to this day.

EVE

Courtesy of Robert Wun

I remember my first lesson, I was told to my face that my portfolio was very childish, which knocked me down. But I started looking around and understanding what it meant to be good, and I just picked it all up myself. I wouldnt be who I am right now or still living here if I didnt love this city. Even though London is multicultural, as a foreigner, if you want to be on top of the game, you always have to work harder.

After I graduated in 2012, I started doing freelance jobs, but I was already making my first collection in my bedroom. Through a photographer friend I met an investor who believed in the vision and gave me the money to start my business. But a couple of years later, my sister saved enough to buy them out, so now the company is owned by me and her.

LOKYIU

Courtesy of Robert Wun

Its a celebration of feminism and femininity, which doesnt mean its only for women, either. Interestingly, [the woman] hasnt changed that much its still that crazy bitch living in another dimension whos powerful, controversial and owns every room.

I lost my grandmother in October last year and it changed my life. I slept in the same room as her from the moment I was born until I left Hong Kong that is how close we were. Everything I love about women and feminism is because of her. I photographed it all because I wanted to close the chapter beautifully on my own.

MITSU

Courtesy of Robert Wun

It was about playing with material that looked like metal to create the illusion of wearing armour, but its actually made out of fabric. The swallow bird detail is because its my grandmothers favourite bird from Hainan Island, China, where shes from. Through the armour, theres a softness of a pleat that cuts into a swallowtail shape, so theres always that mixture between strength and something as delicate and light as a birds tail.

When Celestes song, Little Runaway, came out last year, it was around the time I lost my grandmother, so that was what I played most during that period. It encouraged me to do something about the grief and make this collection happen.

NAOMI

Courtesy of Robert Wun

I loved seeing Awkwafina and Solange in my work. The Cline Dion moment was also something special, my mum and dad were so excited about it. I would love to dress Yseult I love everything she stands for.

The biggest shake-up the industry needs is to be held accountable for using diversity and inclusivity as a token. Why not put diverse people in key positions and give them real power? That way, you can truly celebrate them and not just tick a box.

ZHONG LIN

Courtesy of Robert Wun

Youve got to work really hard and learn the business side of things as soon as possible its stressful, but once you find the balance it helps you design better. Call your family, always. Please dont ignore their calls. And most importantly, remember that you dont need anyone to validate you and what you do.