An expedition to the Galpagos Islands to view the wildlife and scenery that inspired Charles Darwin is, by almost any measure, a trip of a lifetime. But despite the time and expense involved in getting there, travelers in search of luxurious accommodations have had, until recently, to settle for less than fabulous.

The Ecuadorean government is tough on development in this remote, ecologically fragile archipelago some 600-plus miles west of Ecuador's mainland. But last October, Pikaia, a 14-room lodge, opened its high-end, eco-friendly doors on Santa Cruz Island, quietly transforming the landscape. I booked a weeklong stay for December, keen to discover how it might be possible to revel in hedonism while immersing myself in the legendary treasure chest of the natural world.

Darwin spent five weeks in the Galpagos in 1835, and it was during that time that he noticed how the islands, each with its distinct topography, supported distinct species of animals as well. Those observations inspired him to ponder the mystery of how those species evolved, leading, eventually, to his theory of natural selection and survival of the fittest. The rest is science history.

It's not easy to get to the Galpagos from California, but I kept reminding myself that its off-the-beaten-path location has ensured that the islands remain pristine and inhabited by the likes of blue-footed boobies, giant tortoises, Darwin's finches and land iguanas.

My journey took me first to Miami, where I connected for a 41/2-hour flight to Guayaquil, Ecuador. There, I overnighted at Hotel Oro Verde, one of the few five-star hotels in the country's largest city and main port.

Early the following morning, I took a 90-minute flight to Baltra Island, the primary gateway to the Galpagos. I was met by Veronica Maruri, my sporty Pikaia guide who would accompany me for the rest of the week. We were driven from the airport to a ferry, which we boarded for a 10-minute ride to Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island. There we were met by a van and driven one hour to the Pikaia Lodge, which sits on the edge of an extinct volcano and offers sweeping views of the cerulean Pacific Ocean.

My spirits soared as the van snaked up the tree-lined driveway to the hilltop lodge. Although Pikaia, designed by Ecuadorean architect Humberto Plaza, is considered too modern by some local old-timers, I loved it. Its aesthetic is unlike anything else in the Galpagos. Set on a private, 77-acre property, the buildings were created from concrete, glass, recycled steel, bamboo and sustainably grown South American teak.

When I asked at the front desk about Plaza's influences, Andrew Balfour, the general manager, said, "Evolution was the main influence, and we wanted to use recycled and ecological materials, knowing how priceless the environment here is and the desire of the owner to have the lowest impact. He wanted a minimalist design so that nature would be the predominant art."

Pikaia features an infinity lap pool with a 180-degree view over the now-forested crater, a spa, a gym, the Evolution restaurant, the outdoor DNA Bar and an inviting library where nature documentaries about the Galpagos are shown nightly.

Guest rooms are all large. The 880-square-foot Pool Suite comes with its own plunge pool, sitting room, terrace and breathtaking view of the ocean. The non-suite rooms are 650 square feet, and the upstairs Terrace Rooms have floor-to-ceiling glass walls on two sides that give you the impression that you are floating between earth and sky. It's a spiritual awakening every time you open the blinds.

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Galpagos Islands see an evolution in luxury with Pikaia Lodge