For a fortnight, tents across the city have held up for scrutiny the autumn/winter 2012, Resort 2013 and spring/summer 2013 collections at both Prague Fashion Weekend and Dreft Fashion Week, two of three such events vying for the top spot in Prague. With a week's worth of hindsight to digest and reflect on the parties, catwalk schedules and influential collections, we can now better determine who came out of Prague's annual fashion top dog (so far).
Czech designers have been known to love futurism and minimalism more than most, sometimes verging on the side of unwearable or just downright bland, but Pavel Brejcha's autumn/winter 2012 collection turned minimalism on its head with a tonal blue palette that was reminiscent of Calvin Klein. Using fabrics with motion that seemed to sway ever so slightly down the catwalk, "clothes for the modern woman," as Brejcha has called them, should continue to bolster the career of the designer.
At Dreft Fashion Week, it was Black Card winner Jindra Jansov whose delicate layering of organza created a sophisticated collection that is far beyond her young years as a designer. The autumn/winter cuts went with the oversized coat and jacket trend, but did so in a way that still allowed the wearers to maintain "womanly" shapes. Another minimalist standout was Lenka tpnkov, who blended silks and leather to create a very tough female persona by using mostly grays and blacks with pops of tangerine orange: The collection certainly set her apart from her other design counterparts.
Finally, Czech minimalism was done right.
The mix-up du jour of bold, bright colors and patterns came from the spring/summer 2013 collection of Dreft Fashion Week darling Alexandre Herchcovitch, which mixed mad-hatter and Boy George in seamless harmony. Checkered suits, blouses and skirts were paired with plaid trousers or oversized jackets, while clutches incorporated smiley faces la Forrest Gump or safety-pins in a heart design. Quirky? A bit. Facetious and jovial? Absolutely.
Prague Fashion Weekend was not without color or crazy patterns, either: The Berlin-based designer Marcel Ostertag used tangerine orange, bordeaux and cherry red in silks, satins and lace to create a spring/summer 2013 line that was easy and clear. The silhouettes were feminine, allowing a small waist to take precedence over everything else. The designer, who opened up his own show by donning a red, silk chiffon number, was the epitome of grace as he sauntered down the runway.
La Formela, the spectacular design trio, went with "Good News from the Far East Palace" in a nod to Chinese artist Zou Fana for spring/summer 2013. Invoking psychedelic Chinese gardens by mixing lady bugs and koi fish with backdrop colors of bubblegum pink, lime green and marigold yellow seemed so effortless that is was easy to forget just how young the design team is. There were sheer blouses in black mixed with printed high-waist trousers, halter dresses with just a border hem of printed gardens, or a fully printed trench coat which would undoubtedly make for perfect outerwear in spring's fussy weather. The color harmony, which is so often out of place with Czech designers, was executed by a La Formela team living in a minimalist world that was able to overcome those barriers in one fell swoop.
Of course, the young talent that is emerging on the local fashion scene will determine whether or not the industry is propelled forward or pushed back. In both fashion weeks, the organizers painstakingly picked budding talent whose accolades would eventually be far-reaching.
The Awkward Collection by Lucie Jelnkov and Monika Novkov was one such budding talent that debuted two collections of varying tastes at Prague Fashion Weekend and Dreft Fashion Week. At PFW, it was the dinosaur shoes that won the type of recognition normally saved for celebrities. The collection of Velociraptors and T-Rex footwear in various colors were meant to create "memories of childhood, when we discover the world through color, Lego figures and plastic dinosaurs," explains the design duo behind the collection. At Dreft Fashion Week, it was their collection of sheer silk blouses and dresses with the drizzling of silicone to create a bodice, military details, accessories and shoes that were the scene stealers.
In the end, Prague Fashion Weekend and Dreft Fashion Week will each have to decide whether to show autumn/winter or spring/summer collections for the 2013 edition of these events. Cannibalizing each other in an event to win "September" is silly and won't necessarily allow the fashion weeks to grow and garner the type of attention each are aiming for, i.e. international press and buyers.
See the rest here:
Review: Prague's weeks of fashion
- Futurist Serata featuring artist Luca Buvoli at Brown (Nov. 20) [Last Updated On: November 7th, 2009] [Originally Added On: November 7th, 2009]
- FUTUR1SM00GGI [Last Updated On: November 8th, 2009] [Originally Added On: November 8th, 2009]
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- Schedule of Futurist Events in NYC (PERFORMA 09: Nov 1-22) [Last Updated On: November 8th, 2009] [Originally Added On: November 8th, 2009]
- ‘Futurismo/Futurizm: The Futurist Avant-Garde in Italy and Russia’ (Nov. 13 + 14) [Last Updated On: November 8th, 2009] [Originally Added On: November 8th, 2009]
- ‘Beyond Futurism: F.T. Marinetti, Writer’ conference at Columbia (Nov. 12+13) [Last Updated On: November 8th, 2009] [Originally Added On: November 8th, 2009]
- Futurism and Cars at the Museo Nicolis [Last Updated On: November 8th, 2009] [Originally Added On: November 8th, 2009]
- MoMA Film Series Marks Centenary of Futurism with Films [Last Updated On: November 8th, 2009] [Originally Added On: November 8th, 2009]
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- ‘The Future in Five Senses: Echoes of Italian Futurism in New York Architecture and Design’ Nov. 16th NYC [Last Updated On: November 8th, 2009] [Originally Added On: November 8th, 2009]
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- Sutures from Bacteria [Last Updated On: November 8th, 2009] [Originally Added On: November 8th, 2009]
- Remote-Controlled Pigeons [Last Updated On: November 8th, 2009] [Originally Added On: November 8th, 2009]
- Apple Announces iPhone Release Date [Last Updated On: November 8th, 2009] [Originally Added On: November 8th, 2009]
- UK Government Envisions a Grim Future [Last Updated On: November 8th, 2009] [Originally Added On: November 8th, 2009]
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- Bruce Sterling on Earth-Friendly Pervasive Computing [Last Updated On: November 8th, 2009] [Originally Added On: November 8th, 2009]
- First Step Toward Organ Regeneration in Humans [Last Updated On: November 8th, 2009] [Originally Added On: November 8th, 2009]
- IBM's "Five in Five" [Last Updated On: November 8th, 2009] [Originally Added On: November 8th, 2009]
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- Is True Global Democracy the Next Great Political Movement? [Last Updated On: November 8th, 2009] [Originally Added On: November 8th, 2009]
- The Risks of Autonomous Robots [Last Updated On: November 8th, 2009] [Originally Added On: November 8th, 2009]
- Microsoft Introduces "Tabletop" PC [Last Updated On: November 8th, 2009] [Originally Added On: November 8th, 2009]
- Britain Piloting First Biofueled Train [Last Updated On: November 8th, 2009] [Originally Added On: November 8th, 2009]
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- Bird Population Falls Over Past 40 Years [Last Updated On: November 8th, 2009] [Originally Added On: November 8th, 2009]
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- The End of "Cheap Food"? [Last Updated On: November 8th, 2009] [Originally Added On: November 8th, 2009]
- How to Stop -- Or Live With -- Global Warming [Last Updated On: November 8th, 2009] [Originally Added On: November 8th, 2009]
- MIT Demonstrates "Wireless Electricity" [Last Updated On: November 8th, 2009] [Originally Added On: November 8th, 2009]
- Unintended Consequences of Biofuels [Last Updated On: November 8th, 2009] [Originally Added On: November 8th, 2009]
- Time to Focus on the Big Picture in Copenhagen [Last Updated On: December 12th, 2009] [Originally Added On: December 12th, 2009]
- Protests in Copenhagen [Last Updated On: December 12th, 2009] [Originally Added On: December 12th, 2009]
- Mario Guido Dal Monte exhibit [Last Updated On: December 13th, 2009] [Originally Added On: December 13th, 2009]
- Futurism News Bulletin, xvi [Last Updated On: December 13th, 2009] [Originally Added On: December 13th, 2009]
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- 3 exhibits in Gorizia! [Last Updated On: December 13th, 2009] [Originally Added On: December 13th, 2009]
- Forthcoming: ‘Antidiets of the Avant-garde’ by Cecilia Novero [Last Updated On: December 13th, 2009] [Originally Added On: December 13th, 2009]
- Pubblicità e propaganda. Ceramica e grafica futuriste at the Wolfsoniana [Last Updated On: December 13th, 2009] [Originally Added On: December 13th, 2009]
- Balla’s home scheduled to open in 2010 [Last Updated On: December 13th, 2009] [Originally Added On: December 13th, 2009]
- Futurismo a Savona [Last Updated On: December 13th, 2009] [Originally Added On: December 13th, 2009]
- ‘Zang Sud Sud’, Cosenza [Last Updated On: December 13th, 2009] [Originally Added On: December 13th, 2009]
- Conference in Rome (Dec. 10) [Last Updated On: December 13th, 2009] [Originally Added On: December 13th, 2009]
- Climate Hackergate: A Well-Orchestrated Campaign of Harassment [Last Updated On: December 13th, 2009] [Originally Added On: December 13th, 2009]
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- Copenhagen Summit Starts with Virtually There Media [Last Updated On: December 13th, 2009] [Originally Added On: December 13th, 2009]
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- Climate and Copenhagen News December 10 [Last Updated On: December 13th, 2009] [Originally Added On: December 13th, 2009]
- Sea Level Already Rising on Atlantic Coast [Last Updated On: December 13th, 2009] [Originally Added On: December 13th, 2009]
- ‘Umbria Veloce’ in Perugia [Last Updated On: December 14th, 2009] [Originally Added On: December 14th, 2009]
- An Instable CO2-Filled Ocean [Last Updated On: December 14th, 2009] [Originally Added On: December 14th, 2009]
- ‘Futurismi a Ravenna’ opens Dec. 19 [Last Updated On: December 15th, 2009] [Originally Added On: December 15th, 2009]
- ‘Futurism and the Technological Imagination’ – 30% discount until Jan. 15 [Last Updated On: December 15th, 2009] [Originally Added On: December 15th, 2009]
- Protecting Our Lungs at Copenhagen [Last Updated On: December 15th, 2009] [Originally Added On: December 15th, 2009]