The drive from Silver Lake to Malibu, up the 101, took 30 minutes on a Thursday afternoon. We drove past lettuce farms, lemon trees and a truck advertising cilantro and watercress. The trucks driver smiled, window down, face mask around chin. The 101 gave way to State Route 154, with rolling hills thick with shrub and brush, seemingly devoid of human intervention.
Before walking into the Santa Ynez Inn, a 20-room hotel in the style of a Victorian mansion, we donned our face masks. The general manager, Julio Penuela, also wore a mask while checking us in, though the guests behind us did not, standing by the front door, a good 12 feet away. We arrived shortly before the start of the daily happy hour.
Were doing it a little differently because of the pandemic, said Mr. Penuela, gesturing at the plastic wine glasses and shrink-wrapped cheese plates. Wed usually have more jewelry on display, too, but we dont want to have things that people can touch.
Before heading to wine-tasting rooms in the nearby town of Los Alamos, we walked to Dos Carlitos, a Mexican restaurant up the street. A dozen patrons sat outside, slugging margaritas and wine between scoops of chips and guacamole.
You only have to wear your mask if youre moving about, a server told us. That seemed to be the unofficial rule throughout the region. In an Uber? Mask on. Walking into a tasting room? Mask on. Sitting at a table? Mask off (one could attempt to taste wine with a mask on, but that could present some challenges).
Servers stayed valiantly masked while explaining the varietals and fielding questions. Were new at this, said Kim van der Linden of Stolpman Vineyards, which had outfitted the lawn of its Los Olivos tasting room with wrought-iron tables, chairs and umbrellas. We used to have everyone inside, standing along the bar. Obviously, you cant do that now.
Across the street, a prepaid, 90-minute, private tasting at the pinot-noir producer Dragonette came with an unanticipated bonus freedom to eat the sandwiches we bought from Panino, the deli next door, one of the many food options recommended by tasting room manager Nicholos Luis. (Most wineries generally do not allow guests to bring in outside food.)
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