You gotta exfoliate. The dead skin cells on your face dull your complexion, clog your pores, and cause breakoutsand sloughing them away is the first step to brighter and smoother skin. This is not news, right? Exfoliating is part of the basic skincare regimen.
The most common exfoliating products are textured scrubswhat are called physical exfoliants. But if you are feeling more serious than ever about your skincare regimen, we suggest you consider switching over to a chemical exfoliant. These work much deeper and more proactively than a superficial scrub that runs its full course in 15 seconds. (Doubly so if you are feeling serious about this routine being an anti-aging regimen.)
Chemical exfoliants range from straightforward skin brighteners to heavy-duty face peels. They help reverse things like hyperpigmentation (dark spots and discoloration), fine lines, and wrinkles, and fight clogged pores. And they do it far more effectively than most topical scrubs. (Scrubs do have some benefits of their ownwell get to that.)
To get more intel on chemical exfoliants, we rang up top-tier NYC dermatologist Michele Green. Here is what Green had to say about these acid-packed serums, masks, and peelsand she even provides expertise on the type of chemical exfoliant that will best suit your skin.
Dont be spooked by the term chemical here. It simply refers to the reactions that take place when these products encounter your skin. Acids are the most common chemical exfoliants, Green says, and they vary in strength and purpose.
These exfoliators gently penetrate the layers of the skin, breaking down dead skin cells through chemical reactions, explains Green. The shedding of dead skin cells can be dramatic or superficial depending on the type of exfoliant used and its strength. Many of these ingredients are derived from natural sources like fruits, and many of them also occur naturally in our own bodies.
You can tell that a product will act as a chemical exfoliant if its ingredients include things like:
AHAs: alpha hydroxy acids, such as lactic and glycolic acid. Tthese work well as skin brighteners, and are especially useful for people without a major skin malady besides an interest in having fresher complexion and smoother skin tones.
BHAs: beta hydroxy acids, like salicylic acid. These are great for acne-prone individuals since they better penetrate the skin and exfoliate the pores; they are often anti-inflammatory too, calming redness and swelling associated with breakouts.
TCAs: trichloroacetic acids. These provide a deeper peel, and are better for reversing hyperpigmentation, signs of aging, melasma, and even scarring.
Fruit enzymes: like papaya or pear extract. People with sensitive skin might have a hard time with AHAs, BHAs, and TCAs, but luckily, fruit enzymes work more in their favor: Fruit enzymes provide a gentler exfoliation, notes Green. The enzymes break down the keratin proteins that are within those upper, old skin cells, revealing fresh, new, and brighter cells from beneath the surface.
Were still fans of physical exfoliationthat is, face scrubs and body buffers. They smooth your skin as if you spent a day rolling around in the sand. And some of them are gentle enough that they can be used daily.
The major benefit of chemical exfoliants, says Green, is that they can remove several layers of dead skin with one application, whereas scrubs are typically only targeting that superficial, outermost layer.
Another point in favor of chemical exfoliants is that they tend to be better for people with sensitive skin, who typically suffer from the friction of physical scrubs. A lightweight fruit enzyme peeling mask will do wonders for sensitive skin, Green says, improving skin tone and texture and reducing hyperpigmentation and superficial wrinkles.
The main risk is excessive use. Green says that you shouldnt be using these products daily; you need to give your skin cells time to turn over before you peel away the new top layer. Too much exfoliation, with scrubs or chemicals, will only lead to rashes, redness, dryness, and breakouts. Everyones skin is different, but 1-2 times a week is a good baseline to avoid over-exfoliating.
Lactic acid and pear extract combine to smooth wrinkles, fine lines, and to rid of dark spots and large pores.
Watch your skin age in reversethis serum fights sun damage, wrinkles, dark spots, and more.
Papaya extract leads the charge in this wash-away peeling mask. Do it twice a week after cleansing, before bed: wash away after 5-10 minutes and follow with a overnight moisturizing cream.
A heavy-duty peeling serum that deploys lactic acid to dissolve dead skin and reveal a healthy, bright complexion beneath.
The combination of glycolic and lactic acids fuels REN's exfoliating mask, which you can use twice a week for 10 minutes. (Apply to clean, dry skin, ideally before bed.)
Swipe one of these wipes across clean skin to zap dead cells and promote the quick turnover of clear, healthy skin. It's more of a skin-toning step than the full-on application of a serum or mask, but it's every bit as effective.
With a high concentration of TCA, plus the addition of salicylic acid, you've got yourself one helluva face peel. This stuff helps remove the appearance of fine lines, hyperpigmentation, and even scars; it's one of the best anti-aging products of the lot.
Continued here:
The Best Face Exfoliator is One of Favorite Chemical Exfoliants - GQ
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