Table of Contents:Acne-Fighters + Exfoliators | Anti-Agers | Hydrators + Skin Soothers |Skin Oils
When it comes to skincare, it seems like the number of serum, face cream, and oil offerings (and claims) on store shelves are ever-growing because they are. In 2019, skincare brought in nearly $5.9 billion in sales and outpaced makeup growth by 12%, according to the NPD Group, a market research company. And according to Google Trends, searches for "skincare" reached an all-time high in January 2020, and that popularity has only continued to spike through this year.
The skincare boom has understandably brought an onslaught of new ingredients, each sounding better than the next (and some sounding downright insane). In a fast-changing world of vampire facials and snail mucin face masks, the question is: Which ingredients are actually worth the hype, and which will work for your lifestyle, your skin type, and your skincare goals?
To demystify the endless catalog, we consulted our Good Housekeeping Institute Beauty Lab chemists and scientists and over 20 top dermatologists from New York City to San Francisco, Miami, and back again. Of the best and buzziest, we've broken down exactly what you need to know, including the ingredients that play nice together (and which ones don't), the best actives for staving off acne, anti-aging must-haves to brighten and resurface skin, soothing, hydrating fixes for sensitive skin, and go-to products for every skin type.
Through the peaks and valleys of skincare trends, these are the tried-and-true ingredients that have stood the test of time and are worth adding to your skincare regimen, plus how to use them:
If you struggle with persistent acne or have oily skin, these clarifying ingredients are for you. They help to mattify shine, degunk pores, and slough away dead skin and bacteria for a clearer, brighter complexion that's free of whiteheads, blackheads, and the rest. Start slow with these powerful ingredients and avoid using in tandem off the bat.
Azelaic Acid
What it does: Produced by a naturally occurring yeast on skin, this exfoliating ingredient reduces hyperpigmentation, fades dark spots, and kills acne- and rosacea-causing bacteria.
Who it's for: All skin types, but particularly acne-prone skin.
How to use it: Twice a day (morning and night) or once every other day for sensitive skin.
FYI: Start slow azelaic acid may cause drying or peeling on application sites.
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Beta-Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)
What it does: BHAs are oil-soluble acids that plunge deep into pores to target oil glands and decrease oil secretion
Who it's for: Acne-prone and oily skin, since it decreases oil secretion and nixes dead skin to prevent pimples.
How to use it: Begin with twice-weekly use at a low concentration, and increase potency and frequency as tolerated.
FYI: While it's a star on oily skin, it may cause flaking at first, particularly on dry or sensitive skin.
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Salicylic Acid
What it does: A BHA best known for its exfoliating, pore-cleaning, and bacteria-fighting powers.
Who it's for: People with oily and acne-prone skin, particularly those who want to treat and prevent whiteheads and blackheads.
How to use it: Apply as a spot treatment or swap in a salicylic acid-laced face cleanser once or twice per week, increasing frequency as tolerated.
FYI: This acne-fighting powerhouse may irritate sensitive skin or parch dry skin.
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These heavy-hitting ingredients smooth out wrinkles and fine lines by ramping up collagen production and cellular turnover for youthful, bright-looking, even-toned skin. Since skin will be freshly exfoliated, it may feel irritated at first: Start slow, avoid using alongside other exfoliants, and always follow up with SPF!
Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs)
What it does: AHAs are water-soluble acids derived from fruits or sugar cane that exfoliate dull, dry skin and stimulate collagen production to lessen wrinkles.
Who it's for: Anyone whose main concern is anti-aging, or those with dry skin.
How to use it: Start with a lower concentration and work up to daily use, as tolerated.
FYI: AHAs increase skins sensitivity to UV rays, so use SPF every day. AHAs also may cause superficial chemical burns on darker skin tones.
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Bakuchiol
What it does: This ancient botanical seed is a gentler, effective alternative to retinol. It's anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, and increases collagen production, and reduces the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation.
Who it's for: Safe for all skin types and those concerned with anti-aging, but particularly great for skin types that cannot tolerate retinol (e.g. sensitive skin, rosacea).
How to use it: Safe for use once to twice daily, morning or night.
FYI: Any new ingredient can cause a reaction. Start slowly and work your way up to daily use.
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Glycolic Acid
What it does: An AHA that minimizes pores, fights acne, and speeds up cell turnover for fresher, clearer, younger-looking skin.
Who it's for: All skin types, though sensitive or dry skin types should use formulas with 5% concentration, max.
How to use it: Apply daily to oily and acne-prone skin at concentrations up to 10% in serums, toners, peels, and cleansers.
FYI: May cause irritation on dry or sensitive skin, or superficial burns at concentrations over 10%.
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Retinol
What it does: A fat-soluble derivative of vitamin A, retinol is the reliable OTC anti-aging ingredient. It prevents collagen degeneration, encourages skin cell turnover, and strengthens skin against wrinkle formation.
Who it's for: Safe for all skin types, but best for mature skin types or anyone who wants to prevent signs of aging.
How to use it: Use once daily before bed, alternating nights of application and increasing frequency to nightly, once skin adjusts.
FYI: Retinol can be irritating and cause redness, dryness, peeling at first: Don't use alongside any chemical exfoliants or acids. Since it increases sun sensitivity, use SPF every day.
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If your skin is dry, sensitive, prone to redness, or plagued by eczema, these calming, nourishing hydrators will be your saviors. Use them alone and/or immediately following any exfoliation regimen (above!).
Ceramides
What it does: This type of naturally-occurring fat holds skin cells together to help form a waterproof seal and healthy skin barrier that keeps skin hydrated.
Who it's for: Everyone, but particularly those with mature skin and eczema-prone, irritated, or dry, itchy skin.
How to use it: Apply daily in a lotion or cream alone or following retinoids, hydroxyacids, and exfoliants to stave off potential irritation.
FYI: Ceramides are naturally-occurring, but deplete with age and poor skin health. Luckily, OTC ceramides are bio-identical to what skin naturally produces.
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Cica
What it does: Centella asiatica (a.k.a. cica) is an herb rich in anti-inflammatories that calms redness and irritation, regulates collagen synthesis, and protects against environmental damage.
Who it's for: Everyone, but particularly those who struggle with acne, rosacea, or severe dryness and sensitivity.
How to use it: Apply a cica-packed cream or serum to clean skin nightly, when skin is in repair mode.
FYI: Check the ingredients list cica, tiger grass, centella asiatica, or madecassoside should be near the top.
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Humectants
What it does: Humectants are water-loving ingredients that draw moisture into skin to help increase moisture content over time.
Who it's for: Any skin type (even oily skin requires some hydration!), but especially essential for dry skin.
How to use it: Humectants like glycerin, hylauronic acid, aloe, and urea are most often formulated in moisturizers and creams alongside occlusives and emollients. Apply once to twice daily.
FYI: Since humecants draw moisture from anywhere, they might increase skin dryness if you live in a very dry environment by absorbing water from the skin instead of the air.
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Hyaluronic Acid (HA)
What it does: A naturally-produced sugar molecule found in our skin, joints, and connective tissue, this gentle humectant attracts up to 1,000 times its weight in water to hydrate, smooth, and plump dry or wrinkled skin.
Who it's for: All skin types (allergic reactions are rare since it's naturally occurring), but particularly helpful for dry or mature skin in need of deep hydration.
How to use it: Most often found in products that are left on the skin (e.g. creams, lotions, serums, masks), HA can be used twice daily even on sensitive skin.
FYI: Skin produces less natural HA with age, which contributes to sallowness and wrinkles. Check skincare labels for mention of "sodium hyaluronate."
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Niacinamide
What it does: This water-soluble derivative of niacin or vitamin B3 (an essential vitamin not produced by the body) is lauded its anti-inflammatory, soothing, brightening, and skin tone-evening benefits.
Who it's for: All skin types; it can help reduce sebum production on oily skin, retain moisture on dry skin, and foster ceramide production to repair skin compromised by rosacea or eczema.
How to use it: It's typically formulated into leave-on products like serums and creams and best used twice per day.
Caution: The way niacinamide works in the skin is not fully understood, but several studies have shown clinical skincare benefits.
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Face oils are the cherry on top of any skincare regimen, and there's one out there for every type of skin. Use them solo, mix them into a moisturizer, or press them onto skin as the last step of your nighttime routine for glowing, nourished skin.
Castor Oil
What it does: Pressed from seeds of the plant ricinus communis, castor oil is loaded with emollient fatty acids that hydrate and make flaky skin feel softer, as well as ricinoleic acid, a potent antioxidant that protects the skin from free radicals that cause collagen loss and wrinkles.
Who it's for: All skin types, but particularly beneficial for dry or mature skin. Castor oil is also great for thinning or sparse eyebrows and eyelashes by helping to condition and thicken hairs.
How to use it: Apply to clean, dry skin one to two times per day as needed. Apply sparingly on brows or lashes, taking care to avoid contact with eyes.
FYI: Castor oil is commonly diluted in a carrier oil for skincare. Applying straight castor oil may lead to skin irritation, inflammation, and dryness.
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Jojoba Oil
What it does: Produced from the seeds of the simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) plant, jojoba oil is a lightweight yet hydrating oil to soften and hydrate skin, diminish the appearance of wrinkles, and reduce inflammation.
Who it's for: Jojoba mimics our skins natural oils, so it's well-tolerated by all skin types. Its composition is similar to skin's natural sebum, so it won't clog pores yet is deeply hydrating.
How to use it: For dry skin, press jojoba oil into skin up to twice per day right after cleansing. If you have oily skin, try using it every other day or mixed in with a moisturizer.
FYI: Though rare, it does have the potential to cause some side effects such as a rash or allergic reaction.
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Rosehip Oil
What it does: Harvested from the seeds of rose bushes, rosehip oil is packed with anti-inflammatory fatty acids and vitamins A and C which smooth, firm, and brighten skin and fade scars, hyperpigmentation, and stretch marks.
Who it's for: Well-tolerated by most skin types, but great for anyone looking to fade scars, boost glow, and firm skin.
How to use it: Start small by patting a few drops on cleansed skin at bedtime. Work up to rubbing on to clean, damp skin both mornings and evenings.
FYI: Allergies to rosehip oil are rare, but any new ingredient can potentially trigger a reaction. Apply a test patch to your jawline first and let sit 24 hours.
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Squalane Oil
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Skincare Ingredient Dictionary: Every Term You Need to Know - GoodHousekeeping.com
