Puerto Rico has always existed on the fringe of American society. Not a state although many argue it should be the Connecticut-sized tropical island is an outlier. A commonwealth. A territory. But when, say, the biggest NNW swell of the season stampedes toward the Greater Antilles all juiced up by 50-foot seas and 65-knot winds, Puerto Rico becomes the boss dog of the boneyard. The Hawaii of the Atlantic. The best thing American surfings got going this side of Death Valley. (And the likely destination where the ONeill Regional Wave of the Winter: Caribbean could be won. More info.)

Mikey Wright, masochistic and marvelous at a Puerto Rican slab. Video: Darren Muschett

Low pressure pushed off the East Coast last week, tapping into the warm Gulf Stream waters and rapidly intensifying into a potent, hurricane-force low last Thursday, explains Surflines Mike Watson. While the storm did track pretty quickly off into the Atlantic, hurricane-force winds on the west side of the storm were aimed right at Puerto Rico and the Caribbean.

Whens the Next XL Swell? Rincon | North Coast, Puerto Rico | Barbados

Tres Palmas was still chucking em on Sunday. Photo: Micah Weaver

On Saturday morning, January 30th, PR was already on the cook from this monster whose origins could be traced all the way back to the U.S. West Coast a week earlier. Resident freak waves like Gas Chambers had the size but not the consistency, and the trade winds were already having their way with the more coveted zones. This sent most of the top dogs scurrying to PRs most dependable big-wave joint, Tres Palmas, where Rincon photographer Darren Muschett graciously kept us in the loop for the next two days:

Rio Donaldson, detonation negotiation somewhere in Puerto Rico. Photo: Alex Hayes

Saturday, 10:30am: Solid 15 faces coming through for Wesley Toth and a few unknown riders 11:42am: Hopefully it picks up a bit more and gets a little steeper once the tide drops. Brian Toth said its not happening anywhere up his way [Isabela], so hes heading down to surf Tres now Sunday, 8:53am: Miguel Canals caught the wave of the morning at Tres Palmas. Miguel is a local legend. He works for NOAA doing Rincn buoy report data and is a marine science professor at Mayaguez University 2:36pm: Brian Toth, Craig Prothers, Carlos Cabrero and Leif Engstrom are out there 11:56am: Tres is still firing. Wind went a little more to NE, so its cleaner, more offshore. Leif, Carlos, Wesley and a few unknown surfers are out. Some cleanup sets

Its been a really fun winter for medium-size surf, says Montauk/PR split-resident, Leif Engstrom. I cant tell you a week where we havent seen at least one head-high day. But this swell was something special. Vid: Chase Walker

Watch Live Cam Streams from Puerto Rico: Marias | Puntas | Jobos

A few years ago, Wesley Toth shied away from professional surfing and pursued a career in veterinary medicine instead. Wise choice. And apparently, his surfing hasnt suffered one bit. Wesley was one of the standouts at Tres this weekend. Photo: Darren Muschett

Know before you go

The swells been insane, so much fun! Wesley told us on Tuesday evening. And its still pumping! I need a massage. Photo: Jorgito Rivera

The swell filled in on Saturday and held strong on Sunday for the Caribbean, Watson continues. Unfortunately, the strong low brought a cold front near the islands and strong NE/ENE winds along with it. Nonetheless, Puerto Ricos premier big-wave spot, Tres Palmas, was able to handle these winds.

Samantha Sibley. Photo: Alex Hayes

By noon on Sunday, reports from other spots started circulating as the swell continued to pulse. Gas Chambers sorted itself out; in fact, according to some sources, it was the first time the place has done its thing since Hurricane Maria (2017). Meanwhile, a smattering of pasty East Coast surfers did their best to blend in with well-bronzed local aces at some decidedly unmentionable reefbreaks. Vans teamrider/Weird Waves host Dylan Graves didnt hesitate to make the trip back home. Saffa pro Shane Sykes made the trip, as well. Even Aussie madman Mikey Wright, who was last seen charging an Oahu outer reef during Super Swell Saturday, seemingly sprung out of thin air to put on a show at Aguadillas most notorious righthand slab. He got some proper doughnuts, as well. And if he hangs around the islands long enough or, even better, decides to sample the blizzard bombs of the Northeast Wright can expect a bakers dozen more.

High-Res Wind Forecast for Puerto Rico

Dylan Graves actually made this wave watch closely as he pulls out the back. Vid: Darren Muschett

We continue to see additional surf from a secondary, trailing low-pressure system early this week, Watson finishes. Although surf heights trend away from the survival-mode we saw this weekend toward a more rippable size heading into the middle of the week.

Same island, entirely different vibe. Photo: Babby Quiones

No matter how shallow you think this West Coast Barbados spot is, trust us, its shallower. Ihave a bunch of cuts everywhere,all fire-coral paper slits, explained Josh Burke, who traded tubes with friends likeJordan Heaselgrave, pictured here. Weeach probably hit the reef 50 times in the last two days.My brother got slammed, too, luckily he was wearing a helmet. Photo: Casper Rodriguez

Its been a great two days learning about the different waves on the west side, Josh Burke continued. I really wish that coast got swell more often. Vid: Niall Thomas

As talented as he is eccentric, Hector Santa Maria was on his own trip, as usual. Ever the beacon of positivity, Hector said,So grateful to see everyone smiling and enjoying our beautiful island. Photo: Micah Weaver

Hector Santa Maria and Angel Alvarez express themselves. Vid: Jerrys Gallery

I was just getting beatings mostly, Dylan Graves said, humbly. Maybe talk to the other boys [laughs]. Photo: Jorgito Rivera

Nico Moreda, limber and locked inside one of his beloved secret spots. Photo: Jorge Figueroa

Underground charger Jesse Prothers emerged triumphantly to wrangle one of the biggest sets of the swell at Tres Palmas. Photo: Darren Muschett

Its my first time in PR and Im so stoked to be seeing and scoring all the different waves around here, said visiting Saffa pro Shane Sykes. Everyone is super welcoming and amped to have you with them in the lineup. Its been an insane experience!Vid: Alex Hayes

This slab is not called the Gringo Eater, but wouldnt it be cool if it was? Photo: Jorgito Rivera

Max Torres, Tres Palmas. Photo: Jorgito Rivera

Detailed Forecast Analysis: Puerto Rico | Barbados

SWELL SIGNATURE:Storm Location and Movement:954mb low tracking through the west-central AtlanticStorm Wind: Satellite observed 70kt hurricane-force windsStorm Seas:Satellite observed 52 seasSwell Travel Time: Two days to Puerto Rico, 2.5 days for islands to the eastSwell Height, Period and Direction: Rincon nearshore buoy recorded 10 at 14s NNW swell on Saturday afternoon

Continued here:

Biggest Swell of the Season Kisses the Caribbean - Surfline.com Surf News