At the end of a hard days sunbathing, you can refresh yourself with a cocktail at Kaptensgatan or an aperitif at Da Aldo, an ice-cream parlour and caf.

Aldo himself will tell you how he arrived in Sweden in 1996 with a single suitcase containing his precious ice-cream-making equipment. Its not just his ice creams for which he is famed either theres his coffee too as four years later he was named the countrys best barista.

More recently he moved his gelateria to the coast where the clientele could appreciate what I wanted to do. You dont have to be Wallander to work out that he means people who can pay top whack, but what else would you expect from the place they call the Swedish Riviera?

If you find Falsterbo and neighbouring Skanr too sedate, then nearby Fotevikens is just the antidote. A convincing reconstruction of a 12th-century Viking settlement, this living museum comes with a large cast of fishermen, blacksmiths, weavers and warriors.

Another of the areas gems is amber. Large pieces regularly wash up around the peninsula, many of which have found their way into the small and fascinating amber museum at Kmpinge. The staff will also give you tips on the best places to go fossicking. I wasnt successful on my hunt, but never mind, there are few stretches of coast in northern Europe where a beachcombing expedition can make you feel like Robinson Crusoe.

What to avoid

Dont get stressed if theres a traffic jam on the way into town it will be because the bridge over the canal at Ljunghusen is up. It gives you time to admire the outdoor gallery of bronzes along the Hllviken waterfront.

Swedes tend to eat early, so the lunch buffet may be looking a little thin if you turn up at 2pm. Its also a good idea to book restaurants well in advance.

Confusion over the right name for this part of the world: the region is Skne (pronounced Scoh-nah), also translated in English as Scania, like the trucks. Sdersltt is the south-western corner of the province, and often appears on tourist brochures.

GETTING THERE

The rest is here:

Secret seaside: Beaches of Falsterbo, Sweden