The path curved uphill, flanked by sycamore, holly and scented acacia. I breathed in the delicate smell of honeysuckle and resisted the urge to twist a peach off its branch. As this is a national park, you are not allowed to pick anything or even take shells from the beach.

After another swim it was time to get the boat back to Vigo, about nine miles (15km) away. We sailed into the Ra de Vigo, one of the deep inlets that characterise this part of the Galician coast, passing a string of equally tempting beaches and hundreds of mussel rafts the mix of salt and fresh water creates a rich ecosystem that is particularly good for cultivating mussels and oysters.

Ra de Vigo, one of the deep inlets of the Galician coast (Alamy)

Back in Vigo, I wandered from the port into the lanes of the old town, which are lined with little bars offering some of the best seafood youll ever taste. As darkness fell, I ordered a glass of albario, the locally made white wine, and devoured a plate of the freshest octopus. Later on, the sweet sound of a violin led me to a regueifa, a bar hidden away in a tiny square, where I discovered to my amazement that the violinist Begoa Riob was playing in the corner with her group, one of the top Galician folk bands.

While the beach might have fooled me into believing that I was in the Caribbean, listening to that music, another glass of albario in my hand, there was no doubt in mind that I was in Galicia, and I wouldnt have wanted to be anywhere else.

Galicia essentials

GETTING THERE

Vueling (0906 754 7541; vueling.com) flies from Heathrow to Vigo three times a week from April to October, from 97 return. From June to September, there are regular boats to the Ces Islands from Vigo (a less frequent service operates at Easter and in May and October). The voyage takes about 50 minutes and costs 16/13 return (0034 986 225272; mardeons.com). It is best to book online, but tickets are also available at the Mar de Ons office in the Estacin Martima de Ra in the harbour and through most hotels. Boats also leave from Baiona and Cangas. Further information at iatlanticas.es and turismodevigo.org.

THE INSIDE TRACK

THE BEST HOTELS

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Secret seaside: Cíes Islands of Galicia, Spain