WellI thought that by now, Id be cranking out ecstatic columns about the return of dining in Southern California. And it almost almost! happened a few weeks ago. And thenCOVID-19 came raging back, placing California, and Southern California in particular in the unfortunate ranks of Florida, Texas and Arizona. And so, going out to restaurants became a high-risk game of chicken once again.
Though Colorado Boulevard in Old Pasadena, with its newly configured street parking and outdoor dining options, is making a noble attempt to return to normalcy, were still in a state of you pays your money, and you takes you chance. So, for a few more weeks at least, dining at home seems to be the safest of options especially with all the binge-watching available on our several zillion TV channels. And as Ive demonstrated over the past three months, theres a lot of great takeout available across Southern California. Including our much loved standby salad.
Now, Ill bet you thought you knew salad I sure thought I did. And then, I looked at the Wikipedia entry for salad, and discovered theres a lot more to a salad than a bowl of greens with something tasty poured overand something even tastier tossed in for both goodness and texture we do love our crunch.
When it comes to salad, theres a whole world of complexity. Just consider, for starters, the Wikipedia definition of salad: A salad is a dish consisting of a mixture of small pieces of food, usually vegetables or fruit. However, different varieties of salad may contain virtually any type of ready-to-eat food
So far, so recognizable.
But then, the article goes on to detail salads, both cold and warm, appetizer salads, side salads, main course salads and dessert salads. We learn that salad and salt have the same Latin root, since the veggies in a salad used to be salted in brine and in some cases, still are. We discover that William Shakespeare may have coined the term salad days, based on the notion of green vegetables and youthful inexperience. We learn that the ancient Greeks, the Persians and the Romans all ate salad, with dressing. And that a 1699 Discourse of Sallets was written to encourage the English to eat more greens. (It didnt succeed as anyone whos enjoyed deep-fried fish and chips in London can attest!)
And then, we learn of the nine types of salads I mean, who knew? There are composed salads, and there are tossed salads. There are green garden salads, and green wedge salads. There are fruit salads. There are rice and pasta salads, dinner salads, and dessert salads which include not just Jell-O salad, but also pistachio salad, ambrosia, Snickers salad (seriously!), glorified rice salad and cookie salad!
And, theres a term Ive never encountered before: bound salads. Which have nothing to do with bondage & domination, but instead are salads held together bound with thick sauces like mayo (tuna salad, chicken salad, potato salad and egg salad).
You can, of course, make many of these yourself. Or, if youre hankering for the last episode of The Great, and just dont have the time, or the masks needed, to run to the market, there are great takeout salads available all over town. We are defined by our salads, always have been. We created the Caesar salad after all. And the Cobb for the luvva mike! We own the word salad. It defines us. And keeps us healthy, happy and well-crunched.
Beachwood BBQ
210 E. 3rd St., Long Beach; 562-436-4020, http://www.beachwoodbrewing.com
It may seem a bit strange to declare one of the best salad destinations in town to be a barbecue and beer place. But at Beachwood BBQ what they do with their salads is pretty awesome. Consider the Cobb salad, which is made with smoked ham, smoked turkey and applewood-smoked bacon a barbecue fanatics version of a Cobb.
Theres a barbecue chicken salad as well, that pretty much kicks butt, thanks in part as well to the addition of roast corn, black eyed peas and smoked red onions, in a killer chili-buttermilk dressing.
And their salads arent just built around smoked meats though you can add chicken or pork to any of them for a few dollars extra. The Hoppin John Salad is a pure Southern creation of wild rice, farro, black eyed peas, celery, peppers, arugula and watercress in a bacon vinaigrette (got to get the bacon in there somehow!). I also like the roasted root vegetable and farro salad. Its made with smoked feta. It comes with cornbread, as do all the salads. The que at Beachwood is pretty great. But the salads rock as well.
The many salad options include the wedge this one featuring hand-cut grilled bacon. (File photo by Eugene Garcia, Orange County Register/SCNG)
This Caesar salad features blistered cherry tomatoes, chicken breast and croutons. (File photo by Eugene Garcia, Orange County Register/SCNG)
While Cobb salads often feature chicken, this one includes Cajun-seared ahi, along with avocado, boiled egg, blue cheese, baby heirloom tomato, pancetta and grilled corn tossed with a Dijon vinaigrette. (File photo by Jeff Gritchen, Orange County Register/SCNG)
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This Greek salad features a garden lettuce blend, roasted chicken, kalamata olives, cucumbers, red onions, feta cheese and balsamic vinaigrettee. (File photo by Mark Rightmire/Orange County Register/SCNG)
This salad is made all the more appetizing topped with hot fried chicken. (File photo by Cindy Yamanaka, Orange County Register/SCNG)
The Green Olive
3580 Long Beach Blvd., Long Beach; 562-912-7030
The Green Olive is a Middle Eastern restaurant, reminding us theres more to Middle Eastern dishes than hummus and skewers over pita. Which is not to take away from hummus and skewers over pita, which I love much. But on the side, its definitely a pleasure to have a fine pile of tabouli, that classic creation of crushed wheat, chopped parsley, tomato and green onions in lemon juice and olive oil. Or perhaps fattoush, which is built around toasted pita chips like tortilla chips, only not. I love the yogurt and cucumber, flavored with garlic and mint so simple, and so brilliant.
Theres also a Greek salad, a Caesar salad, and a grilled vegetable salad with peppers, eggplant and feta cheese. And no kale in sight. How is that even possible?
Humblebrags Eatery
3225 Carson St., Lakewood; 562-429-3161, http://www.humblebragseatery.com
Yes, I have mentioned Humblebrags often in these takeout guides, including here, here and here. And thats because, like Jongewaards, they do so much so very right. And in the case of salads, they make me very happy. There are large, well assembled plates of a proper Cobb (chopped, but not too chopped), an heirloom tomato and burrata creation (with lines of both pesto and balsamic, very colorful), a chunky old school iceberg wedge, and if you need to mix protein with your greens, both a steak salad and a grilled chicken salad. The grilled chicken comes with shredded mozzarella; the steak with blue cheese crumbles.
Humbly, details are well respected here. And, of course, theres more. For what goes better with a salad, than a sandwich? And a burger including a bison burger with blue cheese and a chipotle aioli. And dont miss Marys Airline Chicken. Which makes me think its going to be something you might be served at 30,000 feet, a breast with a drumette attached, that comes with soup or salad, and a choice of side braised carrots and prosciutto mac and cheese seemed right. Right enough that the restaurant deserves bragging rights though done humbly so.
Saint & Second
4828 E. 2nd St., Belmont Shore; 562-433-4828, http://www.saintandsecond.com
As one of the trendiest restaurants in Belmont Shore, it comes as no surprise that at Saint & Second among the salmon poke, the lamb belly (Korean style) and the smoked short ribs with mole sauce theres an equally edgy assortment of salads. You can get your arugula and quinoa, mixed with grapefruit and a lemon-parmesan dressing, with Moroccan spiced Marys chicken breast, or with grilled Skuna Bay Salmon very nice.
The chicken & goat cheese salad is tossed with, of all things, Green Goddess dressing and its good to see it back! Theres a spiced shrimp salad with candied pecans, figs, bacon, aged cheddar and toasted oats. Theres an ahi soba salad, which would fit very nicely at any number of Japanese restaurants around town. And how about the S&S Cobb Salad, made with both Duroc pork slab bacon, and fried chicken. Is it the classic Cobb? Of course not. Thats the point.
Utopia
445 E. 1st St., Long Beach; 562-432-6888, http://www.utopiarestaurant.net
Who knew that Utopia was in Long Beach diagonally across from a Courtyard by Marriott and a Best Western Plus? I always figured that Utopia, as first envisioned by Sir Thomas More in 1516, was an idyllic island in the southern Atlantic. But no, there it is at the intersection of First Street and Linden Avenue a very pleasant Italian/Eclectic restaurant, with a good bar, and lots of original art on the walls.
Indeed, the full name is Utopia Good Food & Fine Art. Though its rarely referred to as such Utopia more than suffices.
Utopian cuisine leans toward the comfort food side of the equation, with a menu of the sort of dishes that are easy to settle into, and pleasantly easy to enjoy. Steamed clams and mussels in a light garlic and white wine sauce? No problem at all. Fried artichoke hearts with feta cheese and a pesto aioli for dipping but of course and what a pleasure a nice crispy artichoke heart can be.
The artichoke hearts reappear in a salad with kalamata olives and roasted red bell peppers, a perfect combination. But perhaps not as perfect as the salad of garbanzo beans, tomato, cucumber, parsley, celery and feta cheese with a lemon and olive oil dressing honestly, my favorite new salad, and one Ive got to try making at home. A dish that inspired me to get into the kitchen, and start chopping, for the goodness of it, and the healthiness as well.
And yes, there are a bunch of pastas. And risotto, rather than being made with porcini mushrooms, is topped with strips of beef tenderloin turning it into beef with rice dish, rather than a rice with more subtle mix-ins. Im not sure I agree with the notion; but Im not sure I dont. I do know I like being in Utopia its warm and caring, with a cheerful staff (they seem to be local college students or at least some are).
The crowd, when there is one, and not just takeout, is sophisticated. Conversations are hushed. No one was on their cell phone at least when I was there. Thats a Utopian notion if ever Ive heard one no cell phones with dinner!
Veggie Grill
6451 E. Pacific Coast Hwy., Long Beach; 562-430-4986, http://www.veggiegrill.com
The popularity of the Veggie Grill chain is undeniable; most nights the local branch attracts not just the wheat juice crowd, but also families who appear to enjoy a hamburger with fries during the rest of the week.
Veggie Grill has managed to position itself as a destination for both vegetarians, and non-vegetarians. Its a tasty alternative, for those who want recognizable dishes, even if those recognizable dishes arent made of the animal protein theyre usually made of. Its a chain where salad, not surprisingly, is made with all the greens o the moment.
There are seven entre salads on the menu, including Quinoa Power Salad, All Hale Kale, and a Savory Kale Caesar. And that brings me to my sense of using vegetarian cooking as an aid in dieting. Salads are a wonderful thing as long as you dont assemble them as folks used to at places like the now defunct Souplantation, where the options make a Big Mac seem healthy.
I like my greens. I like them with a diet dressing, low in fat. And years ago, I got into the habit of getting the dressing on the side. I have little enough clothing that still fits. Ive got to do all I can to not have to move up another size. Eating salads, well-constructed, works very well.
Merrill Shindler is a Los Angeles-based freelance dining critic.Email mreats@aol.com.
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