Words like "superstar" don't really capture the figure at the center of "Mucho Mucho Amor: The Legend of Walter Mercado," a documentary now streaming on Netflix.

Mercado and his fame are a perfect example of the fluid nature of celebrity in a multicultural universe. For Spanish-speaking television fans of a certain age, Mercado was a giant of the industry, a fixture watched every day for his florid costumes, grand gestures and colorful recitations of the day's horoscope. Other American viewers may have never heard of him. Or if they had, dismissed him as a quirk of Spanish-language television, a baroque curiosity, like the recurring Bumblebee Man character on "The Simpsons."

As the title implies, Mercado dispensed a philosophy of universal love. And he was much beloved. Fans here include Lin-Manuel Miranda, of "Hamilton" fame, who describes how Mercado demanded affection and commanded devotion from his extended family.

An aspiring actor from Ponce, Puerto Rico, Mercado was asked one day to read the horoscopes for TV viewers and performed with such authority and apparent fervor that audiences demanded it become his steady gig. He would go on to conquer markets all through Central and South America, transfixing audiences with his ambiguous sexuality, his pantheistic philosophy and many, many costume changes.

We meet Mercado's manager, Bill Bakula. Through his business acumen, Mercado appeared in many new countries, and even appeared on these shores on "Sally Jessy Raphael" and Howard Stern's radio show. But then, around the turn of the century, Bakula would entice Mercado into signing a contract giving Bakula virtual control over his image and likeness, gaining hold over Mercado's very identity. Clearly the villain of the piece, Bakula has no problem appearing here and seems to regret nothing.

In addition to profiling a much-beloved future, "Mucho" explores how Mercado endured as the butt of jokes and how his image clashed with a dominant macho culture and how his blend of Buddhism, Hinduism and Christianity thrived in a largely Catholic region.

After a two-decade hiatus, due to his bad business deal, Mercado would emerge for a major recognition of his impact on Latin culture and television itself. He would also be embraced by young gay viewers who saw him as a pioneer, proud to be himself in an indifferent, even hostile, world.

"You have to be nice to people, you have to give the best of yourself every moment of your life, and you have to believe in yourself," were his guiding principles. Mercado died last November, shortly after a major museum tribute in his hometown.

There's much to love about "Mucho Mucho Amor." Like a good melodrama (or telenovela), it even provides someone (Bakula) to boo.

"Frontline" (10 p.m., PBS, TV-MA, check local listings) examines the impact of COVID-19 on America's food supplies, and how farmworkers, many of them undocumented, were considered "essential" even as they were most vulnerable to both deportation and infection.

TV-themed DVDs available today include the UMC network's "Behind Her Faith," with episodes starring Essence Atkins, Niecy Nash and other actresses.

TONIGHT'S OTHER HIGHLIGHTS

Simon Cowell and crew reflect on the season so far on "America's Got Talent" (8 p.m., NBC, TV-PG).

Game meats (boar, elk and venison) dictate the menus on "Hell's Kitchen" (8 p.m., Fox, r, TV-14).

An abusive boss may have been murdered by a victim on "FBI" (9 p.m., CBS, r, TV-14).

"Bryan Callen: Complicated Apes" (9 p.m., CW, r, TV-14) offers stand-up observations.

A cult leader puts out a hit on his own family on "FBI: Most Wanted" (10 p.m., CBS, r, TV-14).

The duels continue on "World of Dance" (10 p.m., NBC, TV-PG).

John Quinones hosts "What Would You Do?" (10 p.m., ABC).

CULT CHOICE

The 2015 documentary "Notfilm" (8 p.m., TCM) looks back at efforts to create playwright Samuel Beckett's only film, featuring Buster Keaton in one of his very last filmed roles as well as interviews with Grove Press founder and publishing legend Barney Rosset.

SERIES NOTES

A body puts an airstrip under scrutiny on "NCIS" (8 p.m., CBS, r, TV-PG) ... On two helpings of "Modern Family" (ABC, r, TV-PG): Claire's interview (8 p.m.), Mitch's crisis (8:30 p.m.) ... Henry's difficult decision on "DC's Stargirl" (8 p.m., CW, TV-PG).

Bright undergoes scrutiny on "Prodigal Son" (9 p.m., Fox, r, TV-14) ... Jack's tech side on "black-ish" (9 p.m., ABC, r, TV-PG) ... Stereotypes on "mixed-ish" (9:30 p.m., ABC, r, TV-PG).

LATE NIGHT

Jimmy Fallon welcomes Andy Samberg, Jose Andres and Perfume Genius on "The Tonight Show" (11:35 p.m., NBC) ... Chris Evans, Action Bronson, Elle King and Nikki Glaspie drop by "Late Night With Seth Meyers" (12:35 a.m., NBC).

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Tune in Tonight: A TV stars message of love: Mucho Mucho Amor on Netflix - The Ledger