Oliver Krug, pictured on an earlier visit to Australia, was back in Sydney promoting the brand. Picture: Graham Hely Source: The Sunday Telegraph

AS it marches towards its 170th anniversary, Krug can proudly reflect on its standing in the world of champagne.

Sixth-generation Olivier Krug, on a visit to Sydney to reinforce the label's much-vaunted global reputation, consistently reminded the luncheon gathering of fizz fanatics at Quay that the foundation stone of its success has been the high bar it has set for quality.

Last year, for instance, Krug, one of the jewels in the crown of the Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy liquor and luxury goods group, pulled the pin at the last moment on the release of its 1999 Clos du Mesnil bubbles which would have commanded about $1400 a bottle.

With 12,000 bottles having already been presold globally, this, in effect, meant Krug turning its back on an $18 million bonanza.

Although the wine had earlier been given the green light, a review six months later led to a re-evaluation that ended up knocking the release of the celebrated sparkler on the head.

Yes, it was a big call,Monsieur Krug admitted over superb gastronomic fare created by Quay's Peter Gilmore to complement the star-studded champagne line-up.

But it was the right call, as well, because we eventually agreed that the wine didn't quite measure up to the high benchmark we set for Clos de Mesnil.

The dilemma facing Krug is what to do with 1999 Clos de Mesnil maturing in the company's Reims cellars. More than likely, it will be earmarked for future non-vintage Grande Cuvee consideration.

Krug timed his visit to present the 2000 Clos du Mesnil ($1400), a rare 100 per cent chardonnay-based wine hailing from a 1.85ha vineyard in the heart of Champagne.

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