When to go

May-September is high season, coinciding with the New Zealand winter, when the weather is dry with nights relatively cool. December to March is hot with tropical showers. August and September are good months for whalewatching, key cultural events are the Te Maeva Nui Festival (July 28- August 4) and Vaka Eiva canoe races (November 21-28).

Getting around

Car hire costs about 24 a day through Polynesian Rental Cars (polynesianhire.co.ck). Scooters cost about 12 a day and drivers must first take a short practical test (12). You will also need a local driving licence (10), available from the police station in Avarua. A bus journey costs 2.

Where to stay

On Rarotonga, the Crown Beach Resort & Spa (00 682 23953; crownbeach.com) catches the sunset and has 36 villas and suites set in five acres of gardens with a pool, from 270 a night. On Aitutaki, the Aitutaki Lagoon Resort & Spa (31203; aitutakilagoonresort.com) is a 36-room, adults-only sanctuary set on a private island reached by a one-minute ferry ride. Go for the premium beachfront bungalows, from 300.

On Aitutaki, adults-only Tamanu Beach (31810; tamanubeach.com) has 22 thatched bungalows set in neat gardens with two pools, from 200, including transfers.

Rates drop if you are prepared to stay a short walk from the beach. On the south-west coast of Rarotonga, Lagoon Breeze Villas (22020; lagoonbreezevillas.com) has 18 self-catering units set in a family-friendly garden with a pool, playground, barbecue and laundry, from 125.

Rates are for travel in early December 2014 and include breakfast; minimum stays may apply.

Where to eat on Rarotonga

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Cook Islands: Booking, hotels and flights recommendations